Harley Davidson 20/50 Syn

[oldhippie]

After being assured by everyone on the forum that changing to syn would not cause my engine to start leaking, I use HD 20/50 syn when I changed the fluids Thursday. I've put about 500 miles on and the only thing I have noticed is that my oil pressure is down about 6-8 psi at cruising speed.

I didn't get any increased valve noise or cam chain noise that I was told to expect, just the decreased oil pressure. Normal or not?

Just read back through my post - error - I didn't use HD oil, I used Spectro 20/50 syn. Sorry about that.....

I noticed my oil pressure dropped a little when I changed to M1 V-Twin from HD360 but it was with a corresponding drop in RPM at the same speed. Of course that could be due to engine break-in or I'm just seeing things.

 

[NEWHD74FAN]

Most all modern oils if not stated as 100% synthetic are synthetic blends with dino or mineral oils (viscoity improvers, friction modifiers, zinc are often manmade chemical additives). I strongly doubt a late model HD runing either 100% Syn, or Blend would result in leakage.

Easier to believe oil spillage from oil filter removal and reinstallation is more likely cause. Engine is designed to tight tolerances with modern o-rings, seals and gaskets that are designed for modern lubes. Take a look at designing simple oil filter drain funnel or buy one from your local dealer...they jsut started carring ones for the filter and the derby cover.

http://www.hdtimeline.com/members_tips_for_easy_maintenance/18430-oil_filter_oil_catch.html

 

[ChopperDoc]

I have a plan - Just came in from the shop after doing most of the install of an oil pressure gauge. The air conditioner went out (Happy Father's Day To Me) so I quit before I had a heat stroke. Anyway, tomorrow, after the A/C guys fixes things up, I will finish mounting the gauge and watch my oil pressure and oil temps through the week and for our weekend ride. Should give me about 6 or 700 miles worth of data.

I will keep that and at my next fluid change (I change at each 2,500, our summers are brutal) I am going back to regular oil. If what I think will happen happens, I should get higher oil pressure and higher oil temps.

"Teacher, I will have my Science Report done by the middle of next month" (If the dog doesn't eat my homework).

Thanks for the input everyone.....

 

[BUBBIE]

At the 5,000 mile service on my '09 Ultra Classic, I changed to HD Synthetic. It didn't take a week before I notice oil on the bottom of the engine and primary case.

Would you wash off the bottom good and then REPORT Back with the Yea or Neigh to your new found oil leak.....

I'm on the side thinking Just Oil Spilled and once washed off it will be gone....

Hard to Imagine Oil Leaks on the 09 just from the change over to synthetics...... Let Us Know. Thanks

signed....BUBBIE

 

[hogrotten]

At the 5,000 mile service on my '09 Ultra Classic, I changed to HD Synthetic. It didn't take a week before I notice oil on the bottom of the engine and primary case.

Had the same problem with my 06 Electra Glide, switched it back to regular 20/50 and it nver leaked again. :guitar

 

[Porter]

I noticed my oil pressure dropped a little when I changed to M1 V-Twin from HD360 but it was with a corresponding drop in RPM at the same speed. Of course that could be due to engine break-in or I'm just seeing things.

I don't know what the +/- is on an HD oil pressure transducer, but given the "ball park" gauge on my fairing, I don't place too much in the reading. I look at it more as a reference mark. On any device that doesn't go through a regular calibration check, I always keep in mind that the observed drift could be coincidently due to the "gauge/transducer" going out of cal/tolerance.

 

[trvlr]

It is almost impossible to change the oil filter and not get some oil around the lower front of the engine and front motor-mount.

Sounds like you may do service work on bikes, so you may not have the luxury of time in your particular case.

I've got 2 oil changes under my belt on my newly acquired bike, and 1st time around made a mess of oil getting onto the engine mount area etc. This last time I tried a trick I picked up here, of punching a hole in the bottom of the oil filter at around the 6 o'clock point of reference. I then let it drain/drip overnight and when I unscrewed the filter next morning - there wasn't a drop of oil that hit the engine mount / regulator unit.

That's the ticket in my experience so far with keeping from making a mess. But does require an extended bit of time to drain -

 

[ChopperDoc]

Sounds like you may do service work on bikes, so you may not have the luxury of time in your particular case.

I've got 2 oil changes under my belt on my newly acquired bike, and 1st time around made a mess of oil getting onto the engine mount area etc. This last time I tried a trick I picked up here, of punching a hole in the bottom of the oil filter at around the 6 o'clock point of reference. I then let it drain/drip overnight and when I unscrewed the filter next morning - there wasn't a drop of oil that hit the engine mount / regulator unit.

That's the ticket in my experience so far with keeping from making a mess. But does require an extended bit of time to drain -

TIVIR - A great idea, simple and practical. We don't have the luxury of doing it on customer bikes, but I will start doing it with my personal rides.

 

[trvlr]

worked nicely for me. I think that may be Gliders or NewHD74's idea, but it's somewhere here on the forum.

I have a phillips screw driver with a 12" shank - and it's just the right length to get like a 1/4" inch up from the bottom edge of the filter housing, and a couple good whacks with a hammer and there's your hole punched in. Fabricated a drain funnel from a California Pizza King pizza box, wrapped aluminum foil around it, and that's your funnel to drain into a pan underneath. Really cool as the 1st time I tried getting that filter off with the funnel underneath...oil went everywhere.. Not good for the rubber engine mounts, voltage regulator etc from what I've read here. Good luck -

 

[Dr. Dolittle]

I have a phillips screw driver with a 12" shank - and it's just the right length to get like a 1/4" inch up from the bottom edge of the filter housing, and a couple good whacks with a hammer and there's your hole punched in.

Be real careful with this technique. If the screwdriver tip goes further than you intended it can do some damage beyond the filter. You're also applying some torque on the mounting point where the filter goes on that it wasn't designed for when you rap on the screwdriver with the hammer. Not much but some. I'm sure the HD engineers designed it for the filter to be gently twisted on and off and nothing more.

Oh yeah - your method probably voids your warranty!