Here's my Trike build

[Jack Klarich]

The new sway bar links arrived today and I cant believe as to how easy they were to install. Even doing the adjustment. I didnt even need a wrench, till I had to tighten the locking nuts. I was told that adjustments are made to these to limit the amount of outside tilt the trike would have in a turn and also they can be adjusted to compensate for the crown in the road. Which can cause the trike to wander to the right of the roadway. This would also make riding one handed a lot easier.

My Trike Build

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Think Anit Sieze on everything, You can now adjust rear camber on your trike this will be a big plus in the way it handles and tire wear, you can use a magnetic camber gauge from Harbour Freight Digital Angle Finder / Angle Gauge

 

[zoood]

Think Anit Sieze on everything, You can now adjust rear camber on your trike this will be a big plus in the way it handles and tire wear, you can use a magnetic camber gauge from Harbour Freight Digital Angle Finder / Angle Gauge

Where or what do I set that gauge on?

zoood

 

[Jack Klarich]

Where or what do I set that gauge on?

zoood

You can use the rotor or the wheel , wherever you have a good flat surface for a starting point, remember looking at the negative camber on the rear of old VW bugs?:s Most new cars run over 1 degree negative camber on the rear for high speed stability, and surprising not much tire wear, keep in mind camber directly affects toe settings, if you could fashion a front link for setting toe you would have the BEST set up around

 

[zoood]

You can use the rotor or the wheel , wherever you have a good flat surface for a starting point, remember looking at the negative camber on the rear of old VW bugs?:s Most new cars run over 1 degree negative camber on the rear for high speed stability, and surprising not much tire wear, keep in mind camber directly affects toe settings, if you could fashion a front link for setting toe you would have the BEST set up around

To be honest. I wouldnt even know where to hook up a front link. If its anything like the back set-up. I dont know if I can even set a sway bar through there at the front. Another thing. The trike has to be setting on a surface, wheels on ground. I dont have disc brakes at the rear wheels, just one. The OEM motorcycle brake disc. I dont know if I can get away with that gauge setting on the mag. The center is cone shaped and plastic. The sway bar links are to be set at equal lengths. I had run them up to this point where they were set at from the factory, which was all the way in to the hilt. (shortest setting). The ware on the tires is fine so far. Mainly I have set the sway links about an 5/8's longer than before. When I was cornering on tight turns in the mountains. My tires rubbed. I tried stiffening up the shock springs to stop that. It worked, but I ended up loosing a comfy ride. It will be a trial by error try-out with them set the way I do, till I get it right. But atleast I can turn the sway links easily enough for each trial.

 

[Jack Klarich]

To be honest. I wouldnt even know where to hook up a front link. If its anything like the back set-up. I dont know if I can even set a sway bar through there at the front. Another thing. The trike has to be setting on a surface, wheels on ground. I dont have disc brakes at the rear wheels, just one. The OEM motorcycle brake disc. I dont know if I can get away with that gauge setting on the mag. The center is cone shaped and plastic. The sway bar links are to be set at equal lengths. I had run them up to this point where they were set at from the factory, which was all the way in to the hilt. (shortest setting). The ware on the tires is fine so far. Mainly I have set the sway links about an 5/8's longer than before. When I was cornering on tight turns in the mountains. My tires rubbed. I tried stiffening up the shock springs to stop that. It worked, but I ended up loosing a comfy ride. It will be a trial by error try-out with them set the way I do, till I get it right. But atleast I can turn the sway links easily enough for each trial.

Check ride height side to side, when you have that correct measure the distance between the tires at the front an rear of the tires at the same height, record your measure ments they should be close for zero toe, if not redo the height til you have closer numbers and give it a try I think it wiol track better and corner better

 

[zoood]

Im presently building another modification I have been wanting to try on my trike and that is to see if I can reduce the heat this 1851cc gives off in a different manor, other than just cooling the oil through an oil cooler or like other riders having a fan set-up that's mounted where the horn is. Personally I don't care for the fan blowing through the center of the V-Twin cylinders.

On my trike. The way the body sets. It allowed me to add scoops over the outside of the side covers. These scoops allow heated air to escape through the body and out the back of the trike. All the trike kits I've seen, when the heat off the engine comes back while in motion. It contacts the body and is deflected upwards. Any trike or even two wheelers that have a tour pac causes a back draft that sends the heat forward. This along with the constant supply of heat off the engine can become extremely uncomfortable in no time at all. Other than the scoops that I added to my build. I have my heat deflectors. No this is not a sales pitch. But they work as designed and when moving they deflect the searing heat away from my inner thighs and even send some of the heat through the scoops I mentioned before. When I'm stopped in traffic. They shield me from the heat that rises off that rear cylinder. What I have done just recently is made new heat deflectors for my trike. Their wider and I also made them longer, allowing them to slide in under the openings of the scoops. Now they are a direct route to channel heat back through the body. When Im stopped. Again they will shield me from the heat. Another major addition I have added to these modified Heat Deflectors. Are two miniature fans. that are mounted behind and in-line with the cooling fins of the rear head. One on each aside. They will be switch operated by me when I'm at a light or in slow traffic. They are positioned so that they will pull the air along the head fins drawing the heat off the head and sending it through the scoops. Ive quite a bit of upgrades and different things I'll be doing to the trike, which means until I've went through everything. It wont be until then that I will be able let you all know how this idea works.

The clamp at the center of the deflector is holding a bracket that will attach to each inside of the deflectors.

The white rectangle above the fan is the brace/ bracket that is fastened to both deflectors and holds the fans in place.

View My Trike Build

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[zoood]

Check ride height side to side, when you have that correct measure the distance between the tires at the front an rear of the tires at the same height, record your measure ments they should be close for zero toe, if not redo the height til you have closer numbers and give it a try I think it wiol track better and corner better

Thank you for this Jack > Check ride height side to side, when you have that correct measure the distance between the tires at the front an rear of the tires at the same height, record your measurements they should be close for zero toe, if not redo the height til you have closer numbers and give it a try I think it will track better and corner better < I copied this and saved it to apply at a little later time.

zoood

 

[zoood]

Im still in the prototype stages of incorporating heat exhaust fans underneath my newly redesigned heat deflectors for my trike. I fabricated a length of aluminum into a "U" channel shape for added strength. This is attached to the inside surface of each deflector. I placed a break in the center and with an added section of "U" channel inserted inside and riveted onto one of the sections. I can attach the two half's with a 10/32" screw/ nut and lock washer. Making it all one length again. Below is an aluminum pattern that will house one of the fans.

The pattern allows me to fold it around the fan. I can't keep an eye on the fans while riding and I rather it be there when I stop. This is why I'm doing such an elaborate job at securing the fans.

Below is how the fan will set in under the heat deflector.

In the picture below. The fan is set in position. My trike is up on a lift and when I take it down. At a standing position. You won't be able to see the fans.

View My Trike Build

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[zoood]

This isnt an update on the new heat deflectors with fans. I still have to wire those in. But I cant do that till I take the front end and the fairing apart. There's a bit of work I have to do on the front section and with Memorial Day upon us. I prefer to ride. However,... I did build a passenger's back rest for the trike. The back rest was originally a drag specialties set-up. That bolts to the frame on the sides of the seat. I had cut and modified the mounts and the width of the back rest mounting hardware to fit my trikes passenger seating area. Where I had to weld the chrome tubing together, I went back with a grinder, carefully dressing those areas for painting and painted those areas gloss black, leaving the rest of the hardware chrome.

Where the ends of the mounting hardware are fixed to the grab rails. I will be making arm rests that will mount to the grab rails. Covering up the look of where the back rest attaches.

zoood

 

[zoood]

Well I finally got a break between making our product. Which will now allow me to tear into my trike upgrades. I'll be removing the front end entirely. I have progressive springs for the front end to eliminate the dive I get when applying the front brakes. While it's apart. A new 21" Avon Venom tire will be mounted. The front brake calipers will be rebuilt. I have a hog tunes amplifier mounted under the fairing. I will be redoing it's wire routing. I have an antenna mounted under the fairing that will be relocated and mounted within the trikes body. The antenna was picking up noise from the amplifier and allowing it to transmit through the speakers. I will also be installing another switch that will allow me to turn on "at will" the new fans I installed within my heat deflectors that will draw the heat and air across and from the rear head fins, out and under the trikes body towards the rear. I will also be wiring in the new Dakota digital oil temperature gauge. At an earlier time I had placed extra wires that run from the battery's area to within the fairing in case I ever have future items that would need to be wired in. If you ever have your tank off. This is the perfect time for you to install extra wires. It saves you from having to remove the tank to do this for each new application you may have. After the front end is reworked. I will be modifying the height and shape of the windshield.

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