Just Two Questions Please . . .

[fin_676]

Although i have the correct tool for checking my belt tension if i were to adapt or modify something that i think would give me a close enough result
get an assistant to hold bike upright get batroom scale place under belt mesure from the bathroom scale to 10lb deflection height of the belt cut a bit of wood to the correct length stick bit of wood between belt and scale adjust wheel till scale reads 10lb
clean batroom scale and get it back in the bathroom before wife notices what you are doing sweat a lot hoping wife does not get a splinter in foot next time she checks on how her latest diet is doing :51:

Brian

 

[hobo55]

You're a very brave man fin. And not by using the scale but by putting that in print. Hope Jack don't find that and blackmail you.

 

[Jack Klarich]

You're a very brave man fin. And not by using the scale but by putting that in print. Hope Jack don't find that and blackmail you.

And get put on Vacation again, Nah I would rather take a clip on the ear from the Redhead:wall

 

[schooner]

Hey brothers - i gave-up and i'm goin' 2 buy it

Hey Guy

You know sometimes eye wonder about myself. I got to up the medication(s)

I beatin' & beatin' :wallthis thing about buying that: Belt Tension Gauge

I gave-up I'M BUYING THE DARN THING :small3d026:

After all the blood sweat and tears. I've come this far with the installation(s) of: New Rear Disc Rotor, New Rear Brake Pads.
I should have peace of mind knowing after I get the Belt Tension Gauge Tool; I know that there's 10 POUNDS OF PRESSURE ON THE BELT.

HORAY !

It does a L O N G while for this ol' man to learn anything.
Thanks to great guys like yourself that show me the way.

More to come on the saga of my 1985 Electra Glide Classic.

Next are: Dual Front Brake Pads to be install :wall

Then gas in the newly custom painted tank and BANG in the WIND :worthy

P.S. Pictures are not new; the newer ones have the powder blue & white pin striping on 'em. Really is C O O L looking.

Although i have the correct tool for checking my belt tension if i were to adapt or modify something that i think would give me a close enough result
get an assistant to hold bike upright get batroom scale place under belt mesure from the bathroom scale to 10lb deflection height of the belt cut a bit of wood to the correct length stick bit of wood between belt and scale adjust wheel till scale reads 10lb
clean batroom scale and get it back in the bathroom before wife notices what you are doing sweat a lot hoping wife does not get a splinter in foot next time she checks on how her latest diet is doing :51:

Brian

 

[fin_676]

You're a very brave man fin. And not by using the scale but by putting that in print. Hope Jack don't find that and blackmail you.

Nah not too brave as i bought the HD tool i was just thinking of an easy way to get the same result with what is laying around
i did get asked what was in the freezer a few weeks back (wheel bearings) and she was not too happy about new tyres being stored in the living room (well they are a lot easier to put on when they are warm)
But i think she has just got used to me and ignores some of the stuff i do

Brian

 

[R_W_B]

Schooner in your case I would definitely recommend getting the belt tension tool. I have one, and it sounds like I'm not the only one, though many locals tell me they don't use it. But if you are in doubt get the tool. The link that Tbones gave is only like $10, that is the cheapest I have ever seen that tool. I would buy if I were you. You will find it's get used more than every two years.

But also use the tool as recommended in the manual, this is important since each bike's belt tension distance is different. I (as many on this forum do) set my belt just a tad more slack than what specs call for. It is better to err on the side of loose than tight.

Also I have also heard of the twist method and have checked it and it does agree with the belt tension tool setting, but Jack says the belt salesman told him it was not good to twist the belts. Anyhow I would get the tool, at $10 bucks it will give you many yrs of good belt tension.

I always set my belt tension first, trying to turn each side the same. Then I set my alignment. If I have to turn one side very much to get aligned then I check the belt again.

 

[Jack Klarich]

I might just add here that twisting the belt isn't doing the belt any good. Best off to get the tension gauge and do it right.

Schooner in your case I would definitely recommend getting the belt tension tool. I have one, and it sounds like I'm not the only one, though many locals tell me they don't use it. But if you are in doubt get the tool. The link that Tbones gave is only like $10, that is the cheapest I have ever seen that tool. I would buy if I were you. You will find it's get used more than every two years.

But also use the tool as recommended in the manual, this is important since each bike's belt tension distance is different. I (as many on this forum do) set my belt just a tad more slack than what specs call for. It is better to err on the side of loose than tight.

Also I have also heard of the twist method and have checked it and it does agree with the belt tension tool setting, but Jack says the belt salesman told him it was not good to twist the belts. Anyhow I would get the tool, at $10 bucks it will give you many yrs of good belt tension.

I always set my belt tension first, trying to turn each side the same. Then I set my alignment. If I have to turn one side very much to get aligned then I check the belt again.

I stand behind that statement, tho these belts are tough they should not be twisted

 

[R_W_B]

I stand behind that statement, tho these belts are tough they should not be twisted

I used to know this funny guy that always told me he stands behind his work,.....way far back behind it.

He said once he applied for a job and they asked how much he was worth.

He said he would not work for that.

 

[Jack Klarich]

I used to know this funny guy that always told me he stands behind his work,.....way far back behind it.

He said once he applied for a job and they asked how much he was worth.

He said he would not work for that.

Hey that was me in my younger days or DAZE

 

[karlsbike]

I might just add here that twisting the belt isn't doing the belt any good. Best off to get the tension gauge and do it right.

Glider: Based solely on my own experience I must respectfully disagree with you; provided it is done right I do not see that the belt longevity would be affected - the way I do it is to twist until significant resistance is felt (Schooner: just the way you are assuming), and then let go, with 45 degrees as the target... I do not force it 'hard'.
My only reference is my own belt, but it is now 20 years old and has been twisted numerous times. Upon taking it off this winter, it showed no signs of cracking or edge fraying or anything like that. A slight even wear on the teeth can be seen, but I believe that belt could last another 10 years... Good stuff, in other words, and yet another proof (or at least a strong indication) that EVO's were built to last... I even ran it for a season with a 160 rear tyre that just fit without the belt guard. I guess I was lucky but still my belt shows what it shows (since then I've gone to narrower tyre and re-installed the guard).
Question; is the belt tensioner gauge made for the old belts or the newer, Kevlar ones? I do not believe these two should be set up the same way, as they are totally different in composition and 'feel'.