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No Return Ticket – Just a Ride Report /w Pics

i remember the Dormant Volcano on St lucia we visited nothing like that one, photos will never do the smell justice or the heat, they used to let people walk on the magma cap yrs ago until a guide fell thru, they survivied.
Its were the Pitons of St Lucia come from they are part of the cone and the bit between them got blown out during an erruption
Hey Hobbit. Thanks for the color. St Lucia! The Caribbean....... Too bad you can't ride there. That place is on my list of places to go to before the end. Sailing a boat there is another type of adventure that with luck we do in the future. It kind of scares Heidi though, crossing an ocean all by ourselves. It's a thrilling thought to me :bigsmiley40:
 
Lago de Yojoa to the Nicaragua border:
Again, this ride was uneventful, just good roads and beautiful scenery. It felt like we could have been riding through the foothills of the Rocky Mountains in the US. Tons of pine trees, which are the national tree of Honduras, roads cut through granite rock and streams flowing alongside. Everything felt so familiar, maybe because we have come to feel at home in Honduras, maybe it’s the scenery, not sure what it was but it sure felt good.

We are staged just miles from the Nicaragua border. With luck the border crossing will go smooth.

Stay tuned, much more to come……

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Last day in Honduras:
We were staged just miles from the Nicaraguan border ready to cross early the next morning. Again, Heidi has been feeling sick for the last few days and it seems to be getting worse. Nothing made sense because we were both drinking and eating the same things. My only guess was that she never got over her bought from drinking all that tainted ice in El Progreso. She has been back on the antibiotic Cipro for a few days but it hasn’t seemed to help. I’m thinking in the back of my mind she has some type of parasites. I don’t like this, crossing a border is stressful enough and Heidi hasn’t been able to eat anything in days, she has to be weak. I take a hard stance and demand we stay in El Pariso Honduras at least one more day to see if the antibiotic will bring her back to life. Heidi wanted to go now but she had to agree, staying put another day makes since.

We have a nice little hotel in El Pariso, $11 a night with secure parking and cable TV. I supply Heidi with lots of water and yogurt before I take off to explore the town. I walk into an internet café and check my emails. I received a note from an advRider inmate who lives in Veracruz Mexico. He read my report about Heidi getting sick on the tainted ice. He told me what he and his wife take in Mexico for stomach bacterial problems and parasites. Wow, it was like an email from God. When we lived in the Dominican Republic we took medicine for parasites but I wasn’t sure how to get the correct medication here or what it was called. Anyway, my advRider friend suggested Cipro for Bacteria and Amoebriz for parasites. He said he and his wife take Amoebriz periodically thorough the year as a precautionary measure against parasites. After thanking him with an email and doing some of my own research on line I practically leaped out of my chair and ran to the nearest pharmacy and picked up 2 doses of Amoebriz, one for Heidi and one for me. In my mind I was doing cartwheels through the courtyard of our hotel. I exclaimed through the hotel window to Heidi that I have her cure in hand. One day later she was almost back to her old self and could eat again, thank God! I have said it before but I have to say it again, the help we have been getting through the internet and advRider has been super, people writing helpful suggestions, offering to bring us parts or mail us stuff. This is so great. I can’t thank everyone enough.

Nicaragua Border Crossing:
OK! We are on the road by 6:30 AM shooting for Nicaragua. It’s only 5 miles away. We pull up to the Honduras Aduana (Customs) office to undeclare the motorcycle from Honduras. It took all of about 2 or 3 minutes and we were done, no exit stamps required on our passports for Honduras. Next we ride to and cross the border gate into Nicaragua.
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There were no people running out after us demanding us to stop. We ride up to the Nicaragua immigration / customs office. One guy with a tablet in his hands walks up to sell us the mandatory liability vehicle insurance. This guy was laid back and mellow. He wrote 400.00 in the upper left hand corner of the insurance form, the part that gets torn away and said this is what I have to pay him, about $21.00 US. I look the form over and point to the spot on the bottom of the form that says $12.00. I say “doce dolares?” He says “Si” I walk over to the bike and get 12 one dollar bills and hand them to him. All is cool. He next walks me over to the customs office where I wait in line behind about 6 truckers. I wait for about 30 minutes before a bus pulls up with 8 customs office workers. I get inside the office 5 minutes later. There a woman hammers out my motorcycle customs form on an old typewriter. A few questions and about 5 minutes later we are done. I was ready with 2 copies of every document but I didn’t need any, sweeeet. Next the insurance guy says that I have to go to the police. He walks me over to the police station. The police officer looks at my papers, gives them a couple of stamps and says I’m done. Unreal! I hand the insurance guy 6 dollars worth of Limperas, he thanks me and Heidi and I go rolling into Nicaragua with big smiles.

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I decided to stop and look at the map. The first city we had highlighted was really close and we didn’t feel like stopping quite yet. We push on, riding deeper into Nicaragua………..
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Esteli. This is a nice city in the heart of a big agricultural area that has good hiking and several scenic spots to check out. We cruise through town to check out a few hotels that are recommended in our guide book. We park the bike at the central park. I go off on foot to check out the hotels. The hotels were either no longer hotels or didn’t have parking. On the way back to the bike I walk in and check out another hotel that has parking. $16 a night, I pay for two nights, we are set.
 
Heidi and I like to explore new cities on foot. Here we go, enjoy…..

Esteli was one of the biggest strongholds of the Sandinista movement back in the 70’s, 80’s and 90’s. And there still is a lot of evidence of it today.
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A map we have of the city shows a market area. We didn’t have the map with us so we just wing it. We were having trouble finding the market. We then saw a chicken bus loaded on top with a lot of wears that looked like the kind of stuff people would sell at a market. I see a guy walking behind us with a pile of stuff and tell Heidi to stop and wait for the guy to pass. I said “Lets follow him, I’m sure he will lead us to the market”
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We were right.
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There is a real cowboy feel here. There are a lot of beef and dairy farms in the area.
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The street leading away from the market is lined with saddle shops and cowboy stuff.

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Lunch at central park, 50 cents for both. I Like Nicaragua :)
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The next day I decide to take a ride up into the hills and look for the Miraflor cloud forest reserve. This place is said to have some of the best hiking in the country. It took me 3 attempts to find the road leading into the hills toward the reserve but I did find it.

The road started out super bumpy with a lot of medium sized rocks. I was alone and the bike was emptied out. I felt like I was riding a light dirt machine. I’ll never forget how big and heavy the Sportster felt when I first bought it compared to my 250 and 650 Yamaha’s. Now after riding it fully loaded 2-up I have a whole new perspective. Funny, everything is relative.
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The road started getting worse.
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And steeper. I think I made a wrong turn…….
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The Milaflor is a huge reserve starting with dry savannas.
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I get to the top of a big lookout and decide to call it quits for the day because I started out late. I calculated that if I turn back now I should make it back to Heidi with about an hour to spare before it gets dark.
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Next time, Heidi and I will take off on foot and try to catch a chicken bus in route to the Miraflor cloud forest hiking trails.
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Some rain was starting to move into the area.
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I head back down. What a nice ride…….
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The next day we take off on foot looking for a waterfall that is suppose to have a deep pool at the bottom that is good for swimming.
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We could have ridden the bike here but we felt the need to suck some air and work our muscles.
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We are getting close, 4KM to go. It’s nice how Nicaragua has all the nature attractions posted with similar signs and markings.
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Well, I guess I’m glad we didn’t take the bike. I tell Heidi “We could have made it!”
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Nice…..
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It was a little cold at first but we got use to it soon enough. Yes……
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It took us over 2 hours to get to the falls. By the time we got back we were tweaked. Out feet, our legs, Heidi’s bum :) was really felling it, all a good indication that we had a good day.
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==============================================================================

Tomorrow we head off on the bike up into the mountains to NW Nicaragua, it is said to be the best ride in the country. We will see……

The Ride Continues……………………
 
Search for the Toucan:

Today we head up into the Miraflor cloud forest in search of adventure and Toucans. We are on foot in Esteli by 8:30 AM. I rode to the Miraflor reserve a while ago with the motorcycle so I know where to start. We walked for 30 minutes or more before the first pickup truck stops and gives us a lift.
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The dirt road passes by a couple factories; tobacco, coffee and others that I’m not sure about. Soon it’s just all farms spread far apart. The farms have no electricity or running water up in these parts.

These people I think are delivering water in milk buckets. The driver of our truck stops to chit chat and picks up another guy to share the back of the pickup truck with us.
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The road starts climbing up.
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After a half hour the road forks, the truck stops and drops us off. The driver wouldn’t accept any money for the ride and motions to us to hitch hike down the other road, we all wave goodbye.
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This is where we are dropped off. Here is a map of the Miraflor reserve with towns and attractions marked on it. The only thing this map doesn’t have is an indication of where we are, plus there are no roads marked on the map. I made a list of a few sites we want to hit, we start walking down the road hoping we will find at least one of them.
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We pass several small farms. There are interesting outside ovens at several of the farms.
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Waiting for local traffic…….
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The reserve starts off with dry savanna, then as we march up it turns into some type of intermediate climate zone before becoming cloud forest. After about an hours walk the trees started looking funny. We definitely had a feeling we are far from home.
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Almost two hours on foot and not one single truck passes us. We did come across this ornery looking hombre though. He lets us pass without an incident……..
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Going up and up we could start to see the beginning of the cloud forest.
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We meet up with a couple of kids who enjoyed hiking with us for a while. When we first saw them they were walking at a snails pace but when we caught up they did everything to keep up and hang with us, always bearing huge smiles.
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We pass 2 Milaflor sites we had listed but continue on up into the cloud forest figuring we will explore these sites on our way back down.

OK, we hit a small village and see a sign pointing up a trail into the forest. The kids hiking with us split off somewhere into the village, we proceed, with the blessing of local villagers to march up the trail in search of Toucan.
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Running water.
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We didn’t see any Toucan’s but did see a lot of exotic looking birds and plant life. It was a beautiful hike and we enjoyed practicing our Spanish with people we met along the way.

On our way back down the trail a chicken bus passes us heading back down to Esteli. We decided to let it go by and keep walking so we could visit the other sites we saw along the way.

At times the hiking got tough.
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But always beautiful.
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Cactus growing out of a rock. This is the first time we ever saw anything like this.
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This is kind of hard to see but here is a line of ants crossing the trail carrying leaves about ten times bigger then they are. I love this kind of stuff.
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We are hiking back down the road toward where the first truck dropped us off. We have been hiking for over seven hours now and were hoping for a chicken bus, pickup truck or anything that could give us a lift. Not one vehicle passed that could carry us. We march on. Luckily we were smart and brought plenty of water and energy snacks to help keep us going. Another thing I learned from my father is that hiking is all about resting, re-hydrating, eating and enjoying the view.
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We made it back to the spot where the first pickup truck dropped us off. We were toast to say the least. Here we decided to just park it and hope for someone to drive by and pick us up. We waited for over a half an hour before the first vehicle came along. It was a pickup truck that already had another passenger in the back. The truck stops, we jump in while inside jumping for joy.
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Almost nine hours later we are back in our hotel room in Esteli.

Just Adventure Travel……..We hope you enjoyed coming along with us on our Miraflor reserve hike.

================================
OK! HDtalking is now up to date! :thanks I just wrote this today. Wow, I didn't relize how far we have come untill now. We hope you are all enjoying this ride.........
 
Absolutely wonderful, daring and adventurous; you and Heidi would have made great soldier and Paratroopers.

Any chance of seeing a map that up dates the as you go along to the final destination. ? Keep posting, I am hooked.:bigsmiley40:

Big Lou

Still stuck in Kuwait!
 
Problems with my Nicaragua Motorcycle Customs Papers:

salcar, an around the world motorcycle adventurer emailed me and said he saw in advRider that I’m in Nicaragua and that he is living in Managua, Nicaragua. How nice! He asks if I need any help with anything and suggested we have a beer or two together some time. Great! I wrote back voicing my concern about how I could only get a 30 days clearance on my motorcycle for Nicaragua. I asked if he knows any other way to extend my clearance besides crossing over the border again and coming back, which was my plan. salcar did some research and emailed me back the next day telling me what I had to do and where I have to go to get an extension on the motorcycle customs papers. I’m ecstatic. He says I need to go to the Direccion Generale de Aduana (DGA) office in Managua near the airport. Cool… I go on-line and google “Direccion Generale Aduana Managua Nicaragua” I get a solid hit with an address. Next I go to my map of Managua and see that the street the DGA is on the same street the airport is on, just like salcar said. O Yeah!

We are staying at an apartment where we would like to stay at least a month. We have already been in Nicaragua for 10 days. I didn’t want to pay for the month until I knew we could extent our clearance papers on the bike. I couldn’t wait, the next day I go and stand out on the highway with all my motorcycle papers and flag down the first bus with a guy yelling out “Managua, Managua, Managua!”

The bus was full by the time we got close to Managua. Managua is the largest city in Nicaragua and is reported to be the most difficult city in all of Central America to navigate through. This is due to the lack of a city center and streets have very few markings. The city is spread out. This is why I decided to take the bus, plus I like the adventure of public transportation……
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I have no idea where the bus is going to take me to, I just figure if I keep on it, it will eventually come to some bus terminal center. I was right, the bus pulls into a big bus center. I wait until everyone exits off, then I go up to the driver and ask if he knows which way Carretera Norte is. The driver tells me to sit back down in the bus and he will take me somewhere, cool. He proceeds to drive through the terminal area passed dozens of buses. I’m the only person on the bus. He stops near the end and points to a bus. He says “Nicaragua” The bus he is pointing to has “Nicaragua” painted on the back of the bus. Sweeeet. I get off the bus, thank the driver for the help and walk over to the bus he pointed to.
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I ask the helper of the bus if he goes to Carretera Norte. One guy drives the bus, one guy solicits people on the bus by yelling out in a musical rhythm where the bus is headed to, he is also responsible for taking money based on how far people are riding. The bus helper says “Si” I climb in.

I ride for about 15 minutes until I think the bus is on the street, Carretera Norte. I then ask a guy sitting next to me, he’s wearing military fatigues, if this street is Carretera Norte. He says “Si” Next I ask him if he knows where the aduana office is. He motions for me to sit tight a while and he will show me. About 5 minutes later the guy sitting next to me says to get off after 3 more stops. I thank him and get off the bus, right in front of an aduana (customs) building, right next to the airport, just like salcar said. I say to myself, “this is too easy” It was. After talking with several people outside I finally go in a building and talk to a few more people who were very helpful. I get walked around and talk with some other people. The last guy finally knows exactly what I want and says I’m at the wrong adauna. He points down Carretera Norte and says “CocaCola, CocaCola, enfrente CocaCola” I get it, the aduana office I want is down the road across from a sign or building that says CocaCola. OK, I’m on it. The address I have is “Kilometer 4 1/2 Carretera Norte” I walk about a mile then pass a bar named “Bar 8 1/2" All right, I figured I had 4 kilometers to walk to get to the aduana office I want. There are no addresses anywhere, not on any buildings or roads. I just had to guess how far 4 kilometers was while walking along. When I thought I was getting close I talk with a few people in official looking import offices. They all point me up the road.

Unreal! I find it.
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