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No Return Ticket – Just a Ride Report /w Pics

I walk in the building behind someone. A guard at the entrance ‘wands’ the guy in front of me. I’m next. I just pull out my big switchblade and hand it to the guard. The guard says something ending with “amable” (kind) and puts the knife in his shirt pocket.

I talk with a receptionist and tell her what I want to do. She tells me I need to get a copy of my passport, motorcycle title and motorcycle customs papers, all in Spanish. I get it. She points me across the street. Across the street is a CocaCola factory, a Nissan dealership and a gas station. I ask a guy at the gas station, he points me across the street to some electronics parts store. The parts store points me back across the street. (What?) I walk across the street again and down a residential alley. Lo and behold I see a house with a hand written sign (Photocopies) Unreal!

I knock on the door and a super nice couple makes me 2 copies of my 3 documents, bada bing, bada bang….

The copy building:
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Back at the aduana office I pull a number from the reel. When it’s my time to go up to the counter I tell the clerk what I want to do. I get a solid assurance I can do it. I hand her my copies and pay the one dollar per day for the amount of days I want the extension, just like salcar said. She is ready to finalize everything. Now she has a puzzled look on her face and rattles out something I didn’t understand. The clerk stands up and goes to talk with some other people. About 10 minutes later she comes back and points to my customs papers. !!!!! The people at the border typed in 2007 for the date of my crossing into Nicaragua. It should be 2008!

Ok, the aduana office needs to contact the border crossing post that screwed up my papers and get a confirmation that they messed it up before I can get my extension. A manager tells me I have to come back tomorrow and that she will call me at the hotel when it’s all ready. The clerk refunds me the $30 dollars I paid. I go marching off happy knowing I will get this done eventually.

I walk through Managua for over 2 hours until I’m sure I’m on the highway leading to Masaya. There I flag down a taxi to take me about 4 or 6 kilometers up the road to where I know a bus will be running back to my hotel. There I tell the driver to stop at a bus stop. I pay him $2.50 and wait for a bus yelling “Masaya, Masaya, Masaya”

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A little info:
The bus ride from the hotel to Managua, about 25 miles costs 75 cents. A bus ride in town costs 13 cents. Taxis in Latin America are cheap but there are no meters. Asking the price ahead of time pretty much assures that you will pay double. The way I do it is ‘guesstimate’ what the price will be while having the exact cash in hand when the taxi stops. While opening the door to let myself out I hand the cash to the driver while thanking him, never looking at him. This has always worked for me and the cost of the taxis are about the same as a good tip alone in the US. Did I say I like taking public transportation in Latin America…….
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I’m back at the hotel. I knew it was too good to be true that I would receive a phone call from the aduana office telling me everything is ready. I just plan to return to Managua the next day and wing it. At the hotel another couple arrived by van from the state of Washington. They also want to stay a month here. I tell them of my situation. They soon realize they are in the same boat as us. They need to get an extension on their customs papers for their van. I offer to guide them through the process in Managua to get an extension.

The next morning I walk out to the highway with Peter, the guy from Washington. We hop on the first bus yelling “Managua, Managua, Managua” I know just what to do. We get to the customs office in record time. Next we walk over to the copy building to get copies of Peter’s documents. Peter forgot his van title. Oh well……

I walk into the customs building and hand over my switchblade to the guard. He gives me a big smile and puts the knife in his shirt pocket again. I go over to the manager’s office who has been helping me. She says she is just waiting for an email from the border post where I crossed into Nicaragua for a confirmation of their mistake. Peter and I talk for about 2 hours before I get the word that the email is in and everything is good. I wait for another 15 minutes for the manager to have my new customs papers typed up. She then tells me everything is set and that I just have to wait for the Director General of Customs to sign it. He gets in at 3:00 PM, only 3 and a half hours from now. Peter and I go off marching through Managua in search of some food and an internet café. I want to let Heidi know what’s up and that depending how long this takes I may end up staying the night here.

An hour later we find internet. Another half hour we find a string of restaurants along the shores of Lake Managua. After peeking in a half dozen restaurants, Peter and I finally find one where the music is playing at a tolerable volume. We have a nice lunch looking out at the lake. Peter is an interesting guy. He and his wife retired ten years ago and bought a large motor cruiser to sail between Alaska and Mexico. They went cruising every year for ten years. Now, after selling the boat they are on their first overland trip of Central America.

A little after 3:00 we are back at the customs office. Ten minutes later the girl hands me with a big smile the new corrected customs papers. I tell her I now need to get a 30 day extension. She goes off to talk with someone about this. Later she comes back telling me that I can’t get the extension until 1 or 2 days before my papers expire. I thank her a thousand times (Mil gracias) Peter and I go off in search of a bar…..

Life Is Good……………..
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I hope you enjoyed my little story……..
 
Ride to Leon:

I met a backpacker couple at a coffee shop in Esteli who raved about Leon and the beaches close by. They said Leon was the highlight of their whole trip. They also said they didn’t think much of Granada saying it has a busy feel.

Leon, time to check it out and Heidi wants to come along. All Right!

The bike is emptied out except for some overnight stuff and tools. Our buddies see us off from our apartment.
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I’m really liken’ this a lot. The bike feels nimble, Heidi is looking good and we are on our way to explore a new part of Nicaragua.

During my research before this trip I saw a Harley Davidson shop in Managua. I don’t quite need new rubber yet but I thought I would put two new tires on since we are so close to a shop. The shop manager and I emailed back and forth a few times but he doesn’t have any tires for me in stock. I asked if he could order me 2 tires saying I would be willing to ride there and pay for them ahead of time. That was over a week ago and I haven’t heard anything back, bummer. I guess I will get new tires in Panama City like I originally had planned. Anyway I saw the Harley shop while riding into town on the bus so I know right where it is. I had to at least stop for a photo.

Nicaragua - Nice……..
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Managua Lake is like volcano city.
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My mistress: I built her. We have gone far and wide together. I love her……… (Click)
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Heidi says my mistress is ugly but she understands my passion. She knows she is my number one (Am I OK?)
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We tool through Leon and head down the hellish 12 mile road to the Pacific coast and the town Poneloyo. The village seemed like a ghost town. We ride onto the beach between two hotels. The hotels looked abandoned with no glass on the windows and nothing inside. Wooow… We ride to the end of the beach and see some fisherman mending their nets.
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We were hungry for breakfast. None of the restaurants looked like they were open for business. We ride back toward the center of town where a guy comes running out. I stop and he says “Desayuno” (breakfast) to us. We are on it.

A nice little hotel and restaurant. We both had eggs, rice, beans with tortillas, one bottle of water, one bottle of OJ and two beers. $6.00. What a deal. The rooms of the hotel looked like little dungeons.
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We wanted to spend the night here but couldn’t find any reason to stay. We decide to head back to Leon to look for a hotel there.
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Leon seemed pleasant enough so we pull into the only hotel we found with parking, Hotel Euro and proceeded to check it out. I ask the manager if he has a room for two. I next ask him the price. He didn’t tell me the price but asked if I want to see the room. Hummmmm? The room looked Ok but nothing great. I ask the price again. He tells me the price in dollars. Nope, too much. The guy clued me right off the bat by not telling me the price when I asked. I think he was trying to be smart. Didn’t work with me……

There was nothing we didn’t like about Leon but we couldn’t really find any compelling reason to keep looking for a place to spend the night here. We like the place we have. Our pool awaits……
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We enjoyed a great ride back to our hotel apartment. All in all is was a great ride and a great day.
 
No word from you two in a couple of days... everything still all good down that way?
Can't just leave your reading public hanging like that!
Have a great adventure, and as always
Ride Safe!

similar to the other forum this is posted on they were OK just no wifi or internet connection. Fingers crossed that they are ok:D

Considering where they are, I guess they're lucky if they find any sort of internet connection!
Here's hoping that they're doing well.. and enjoying themselves!
A personal aside... I showed my Mrs this thread of adventure... and she said that Caveman bears a striking resemblance to that Extreme Makeover bloke Ty Pennington. Just a bit beefier. I hope that doesn't mean he's also carrying a bullhorn with him on this ride!

Hey DarkKnight and Hobbit. Thanks for the replies dudes. I’ve been on a river adventure for the last week so have been out of touch. Report coming soon………!!!
For sure! Ty Pennington, I can’t tell you how many people have old me that. I’ve been followed in Sears and Home Depot, ha ha ha :) Heidi tells me I don’t need a bullhorn with my voice.
 
San Juan River - Central America: Warning - Tons of Pics!
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With my new National Geographic in hand I leave Heidi behind at central park Granada to head off on a week long adventure down Rio San Juan.
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I have my backpack with everything I need including my fishing rod. I march down to the dock on Lake Nicaragua, about 2 KM away.
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People were lined up at the ticket booth in Granada getting ready to board the boat. The line was at least 100 meters long. A guy in a uniform started searching bags of the people who were standing in line. I overheard an officer ask a couple guys in front of me if they had a “cuchillo” (Knife). I could feel the hair on the back of my neck rise. I quickly shifted my camera pouch over to cover my buck knife holster. The officer was two people in front of me. When he got to me I bent down and opened my backpack for inspection. All I got was a smile while he walked past to inspect the bag of the people behind me. whew!
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With ticket in hand I head out and board the boat.
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I’m on the boat for 16 hours while it sails across the biggest lake in Nicaragua, Lago De Nicaragua. The boat is expected to dock at the city at the far end of the lake, San Carlos by 6:30 AM. San Carlos is at the start of Rio San Juan (San Juan River). Rio San Juan is 120 miles long running between Lake Nicaragua to the Caribbean Sea. Most of the river is a border between Costa Rica and Nicaragua. This stretch of river is said to be one of the most remote regions of Central America lined with impenetrable rain forest. My guide book says traveling along this river is like taking a step back in time. It also lists this trip as being the best ‘off the beaten track’ adventure. Say no more, I am ON IT!

The bottom deck is the cheap seats, $1.14. The upper deck has an air conditioned room with padded benches and an area outside to hang a hammock for sleeping, $12.00

Bottom deck:
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Upper deck:
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Waves splash up onto the side upper decks so the smart guys have a plastic cocoon wrapped around their hammock.
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The plan is to get to San Carlos and look for a boat that will take me the 120 miles up river. I’m searching for primitive villages, monkeys, exotic birds, sights, smells, sounds and the essence of my soul……

Embarking on something like this you must be prepared. Some of my youngest memories are of my father instructing me to take stick matches and dip them in melted paraffin wax to waterproof them. At age 14 I can vividly see myself in our garage in Northern Wisconsin with -10 deg F outside. My dad stoking the pot belly stove so I could prepare my motorcycle to go out and explore the snowmobile trails. My father would quiz me to make sure I had all the proper survival gear including waterproof stick matches. This was a time before there were groomed snowmobile trails. I needed to be able to start a fire to signal a rescue and to keep warm if necessary. Anyway I’ve been prepared my whole life for adventures like this.

Here is my list of stuff I’m taking along:
- Small backpack
- Water hiking shoes
- Hiking pants, LS shirt, SS shirt, swim shorts
- Rain jacket
- Camp towel
- Water
- Large bag of mixed nuts and dried fruit
- Book and National Geographic magazine
- 12” X 18” Thermorest pad
- Baggies, rubber bands and some duct tape
- Fishing rod and lures
- 2 cameras & tripod
- Small SW radio
- Spare batteries
- World quad-band cell phone /w world SIM chip
- Ultra sharp buck knife, switch blade & pepper spray (cavebiker carries two knives)
- Snake bite kit
- Sanitary wipes
- Mosquito spray
- Water purification pills
- Malaria pills
- Cipro, travelers diarrhea pills
- Compass
- Rope
- Flash light, head light
- Waterproofed white tipped stick matches

This may sound like a big list but it all fits in an ultra small backpack and I have everything. I not sure what I’m getting into but I will be prepared.

Sunrise at port San Carlos:
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16 hours later the boat arrives in San Carlos just as planned. It was just starting to get light. I was thinking of spending the night here to recoup from the long boat ride. Everyone disembarks.
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We all walk out of the fenced in area. I find myself in front of a ticket booth with a sign saying ‘Boletos (tickets) San Juan Del Norte’. The river boat was taking off in less then 30 minutes. I buy a ticket and jump on the boat.
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I am mentally prepared to board…….. I think?
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Waiting at the dock the scene is beautiful.
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Just before the boat left the dock at San Carlos the order went out to put on life preservers. Everyone complied. There were officials all around the dock area at San Carlos and I figured this was some type of requirement. We were under way for less then 10 minutes when everyone started taking off their vests, so did I. Soon a guy working the boat started collecting the life preservers and tossing them to a guy on top of the boat. I was trying to figure out what this was all about but couldn’t come up with any likely scenario. About a half hour later, up river we meet another passenger river boat. Both boats slowed down to a crawl running right at each other. When the boats were about 100 feet away the guy on the roof of our boat tosses overboard two big bundles of life preservers. The other boat fishes them out of the water and stows them. ‘Light bulb’ I get it……
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About an hour down river from San Carlos I see a shark fin surface less then 3 meters from my side of the boat. This river and Lake Nicaragua is home to the only fresh water sharks in the world. I decided to curtail my vision of doing some serious swimming here.
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Another an hour we stop in the middle of the river to let a lunch boat come along side us and sell us prepared meals, snacks or pop.
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The guy in the camo helps me get my meal of fish, rice, beans and fried plantains, $1.26
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We arrived at the Caribbean right at dark. With a full moon it was easy to distinguish the surf of the Caribbean Sea across a narrow sandbar as we approached the end of the river. The loud roar of the surf was even more dramatic. The captain pilots the river boat left, right, left, right around practically invisible stick and rock islands. He is one with the river. A few kilometers later and over 11 hours after we departed we ghost up to the dock at San Juan Del Norte. We are miles from any road.

Almost 80 people unload off the boat. There were 20 or more people waiting at the dock for the boat to arrive. The dock was a buzz of activity with cargo being unloaded onto a large push cart, people talking and reacquainting. There is a small store at the dock. I walk over and ask if they have beer. The woman first shakes her head no. I then ask is she has a bottle of water. No water either. She looks around a little then pulls me out an ice cold beer. Oh Yeah……
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After the beer I ask if she knows of a hotel nearby. The town looked dark. From the dock you couldn’t even tell there was a town here. The woman tells me to sit tight and whips out her cell phone. A few minutes later 3 little kids, the oldest no more then 10 guide me off. There are no roads in San Juan Del Norte, just sidewalks. We walk several blocks along the river past a park, then down 4 more blocks along some rustic residential houses. Bingo, we are standing in front of a little hotel. I tip the kids 5 cordobas each, less then 10 cents. They went running happily off into the darkness. Ricardo, from the hotel, greets me outside and shows me the room. $11 and I am liken’ it.

While walking to the hotel we passed a woman cooking some stuff on a portable kitchen. After settling into the hotel I walk back to see what she has cooking. I point to some things she had on the grill and ask “?Que es ese?” (What is that?) “Empanadas” I repeat “Empanadas! Me gusto mucho empanadas!” Several women sitting there break out in laughter. This happens to me a lot. Heidi says it’s the way I say things. ?? Anyway I order 2. A young girl puts them on the hot part of the grill while her mother wipes down a plastic chair for me to sit on. At first the girl starts wrapping the empanadas in a huge green leaf. The mother tells her something then she puts them on a small plastic plate. The mother piles a heap of coleslaw on top of the empanadas. I search around for a fork. A woman motions for me to use my fingers to eat the slaw. OK, I can do that. I enjoyed some of the best, fattest and most perfect empanadas ever.

A half a dozen or more young kids were all playing in a circle near where I was eating. An ice cream cart was parked there also with a few teenagers hanging around. This was the same ice cream cart on the deck of the boat that I came in on and the same guy who was selling ice cream to people on the boat. I end the night with a chocolate dipped Eskimo ice cream bar.

I’m up early the next morning and walk down to the dock. The boat I came in on is still sitting there. I’m wondering if it’s going to sail back to San Carlos today. A guy in army fatigues knocks on the closed shutters of this little store (below) and whispers “?cafe?” I whisper “?Dos cafes por favor?
A few minutes later we both help raise and secure the shutters of the store and are served a great cup of coffee. I just hang out enjoying the scene, the coffee and reading my National Geographic magazine.
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A merchant lancha (boat) sails into the dock with supplies for the town. It is delivering a bunch of goods to the little store. The workers of the passenger boat I came in on are rustling in their hammocks they had strung inside the boat. The kids sleeping inside the boat start cleaning up the trash left behind from yesterdays voyage. The merchant and the woman at the store figure out the bill using a notebook with hand written notes and a small calculator. After a while all the boat workers are up and at the counter with me and the guy in military fatigues. One by one everyone gets served a big plate of breakfast food. I ask “?Es posible conseguir desayuno para mi?” (Is it possible for me to get breakfast?) I get a friendly “Si” Soon I have a big plate of scrambled eggs, rice, beans and a couple tasty pieces of fried pastry. Some one brings me over a chair to sit down on, someone else hands me a jar of pickled hot peppers and onions. I feel like I’m part of the family. When everyone is finished I notice no one paid for anything. I deduced that everyone here is family. I ended up paying less then $3.00 for 2 cups of coffee, a big glass of juice and a big plate of food.
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At the dock:
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A fisherman bailing out his canoe using the paddle.
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No people were coming down to the dock and nothing was happening with the boat. I ask the captain if he’s running back to San Carlos today. He tells me “mañana” . OK, today will be devoted to fishing, reading and just chillen’ in San Juan Del Norte, which is a good thing because I was toast from the 27 straight hours of boat travel the day before. After breakfast I found a quiet little spot on the riverbank and tried a little fishing. After a while a guy bicycled by and introduced himself. He told me there are no fish here but a few kilometers up the river in either direction near the sea there are a lot of big fish. He offered to arrange a guide and boat for me. Super nice but I wasn’t here to bag a lot of fish, I just wanted to enjoy the river and life here in San Juan Del Norte. I fished for a little while (no fish?), crashed for a few hours and read, a perfect day in my book.
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Later I went out to look for food. I found out the woman with the portable kitchen didn’t make any empanadas today. I explore the town a little more and found a quaint little restaurant. While I was eating there a large group of people walked in and stopped to talk to me at my table. They said they recognized me from the boat yesterday and asked how I like it here. They gave me a real warm and friendly welcome, it was almost overwhelming.

San Juan Del Norte:
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While looking around town I noticed a nice small bar right on the waterfront. I figure I better stop in and have one. It was like out of a movie complete with some loud and rowdy locals at the bar and a foreign guy playing tourist in shorts and white sandals buying round after round for some locals at his table. Sometimes I play the nice guy too long but not this time. Soon the rowdies at the bar learned my middle name is ‘Big Bad MF’ They respected me and left me alone after that. The guy in the white sandals buying the rounds was asking too many questions. I don’t think he was what he was posing as. He soon left me alone also. I like this stuff way too much but I was smart and got out of there quick.

The river boat is scheduled to set sail at 5:00 AM. People are piling in. A large fishing boat pulls up to the dock in total darkness. It was like a ghost ship with no running lights and the bow so tall you couldn’t see the operator. There were only 25 or 30 people on board when we started off. I was able to get a good seat where I could stretch out my legs a little. Again the captain has to know the river like the back of his hand. We took off at full bore dodging small stick and rock islands in almost total darkness. I couldn’t tell the river was bending but soon we were turning sharp one way then the other. With no warning or obvious reason the boat would suddenly slow down to a crawl. I could feel the boat or outboards gently hit something. We continued on slowly for several hundred more meters before the engines were gunned again.

5:00 AM at the dock as we pull away:
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As we were running down river and the sun was starting to come up I could start seeing figures peeking out of every household. Little children, teenagers, mothers and fathers just staring out at our boat cruising by them. I wonder what they must be thinking. These homes have no electric power or TV’s. I wonder if they can read. Even if they can there are no libraries near. I have to point out one observation I couldn’t help notice about the young people I observed along the river. To put it simply their social skills are way advanced compared to kids I’ve known. While eating dinner at the restaurant in San Juan Del Norte a little kid about 6 years old comes marching in tall and straight and barks out to the store teller what he wants. His voice was pronounced and assertive and he held himself like a little Arnold Swartzenegger. He grabs the bag of stuff from the clerk, pays him and goes marching off as if he is on a critical mission. I saw the same type of behavior from a kid about 14 on the boat. He walks up to a military person in the boat and starts conversing with him as if he was his same age and rank. The army guy pulls out a camo hat just like the one he was wearing and hands it to the kid. The kid thanks him at least 20 times, all the time standing tall, straight and looking the guy straight in the eye, joking and thanking him at the same time, like they are peers. I swear if this kid was a foot and a half taller and 40 pounds heaver and wearing military camo you would be convinced he was an officer. I know I’m not a writer and maybe I’m not spelling this out clearly but I noticed this so many times with so many kids it was just unmistakable. Not being polluted by video games, TV and I don’t know what else has a definite positive affect on these river people. As for the adults I see a distinct pride that translates to a type of kindness to others that is remarkable. There is a gentle respect Nicos show to one another. Not the hugging and massive hand shaking we see in Mexico but a more subdued friendliness that seems to say ‘we like you, we respect you and want things to go well with you’ The more I see the real Nicaragua the more I like it.

Going up and down the river there are a half a dozen or more military posts. The River boats I think are required to stop at every post. Several times during the journey a boat worker walks down the isle of the boat and gets everyone’s name and writes them on a tablet of paper. 2 or 3 times they also write down everyone’s identification number. There were several foreign backpackers traveling part way up the river to get off at El Castillo where they cross into Costa Rica. Anyway all the backpackers would get their passports checked at the military posts by a military person who boards the boat. Of course I didn’t carry my passport because I didn’t think I would need it. Because the river borders Costa Rica half the passengers are Costa Rican and half Nicos thus requiring strict checking where people are coming from and where they are going. Anyway I must be starting to blend in a little because they never checked me, am I lucky! People who disembark at El Castillo really have their baggage checked. Toy eggs shaken, large teddy bears felt up and down for something hidden inside and huge sacks emptied out, interesting.

Surprisingly the best part of this adventure has been witnessing and being part of the pulse and rhythm of life on the river. There are no roads here. You either live on the river or live up a short foot path from the river. At one point the boat I was in was overloaded with over a 100 people, several had to stand. Soon the boat would pullover to a blind bank and people would jump off and/or more would jump in. The captain is on the roof in the back of the boat in a pilot house. I never observed any signal for when the boat needed to pull over to let people off, it just happened like poetry in motion.
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More photos of Life on Rio San Juan: -------------> Enjoy………..

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River Outhouse:
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El Castillo about a third the way up the river:
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Dense Rain Forest:
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This kid is loading up sack after sack into the boat that look bigger than him.
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All you have to do is stand on the shore and the boat come will pick you up.
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A fuel and snack stop:
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Our boat on the left:
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This stop had a dozen or so people waiting to be picked up:
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It rained off and on the whole time I was on the river.
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Some big rapids near El Castillo:
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A little break at El Castillo:
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A merchant vessel:
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Back at port San Carlos and Lake Nicaragua:
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Everyone disembarks. The ice cream guy waits to be last:
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I decided to skip the 16 hour boat ride back to Granada. It was a tough and long sail. Instead I decide to embark on another adventure by trying to take a bus to Managua and then to Granada.

The bus station in San Carlos:
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I have 2 hours to kill. I grab some food:
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This plate of food cost me $1.55. The carne asada was super as was everything else.
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Back at Granada: What a great trip. I will never be the same again……
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We hope you enjoyed coming along on a trip up the Rio San Juan, Nicaragua.

Stay tuned, The Ride Continues……………………….
 
Hey Cavebiker, good to hear from you guys, that last period of silence was making me a little concerned, good to see that Hobbit was spot on. Take care and keep writing. PS.
 
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