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No Return Ticket – Just a Ride Report /w Pics

Hey Guys, good to see you both back on line and looking well.

"Touch wood" no problems with the bike, which makes me find it hard to believe that HD aren't providing even a modest amount of support. To see a Harley going through the type of endurance where most of us would expect to see a BMW or KTM being used is truly impressive and would appear to me to be a marketing man's dream. This was proven with "The Long Way Round" where sales of the BMW 1150GS soared and KTM were left regretting that they never took up the opportunity to supply their bikes in the first instance. There is a large part of the market (mostly outside of the US) which doesn't take HD seriously. More than likely, if more people knew what you guys were doing on a fairly bog-standard HD street machine and the roads that you drive on from time to time they would sit up and take notice in my humble opinion. You are proving to many (myself included) that would have doubted that your bike was capable of such endurance. So well done again guys and thanks for telling us your story on this forum. Awesome.
 
@Powerset: Thanks man. Yes, the bike is running tops. That’s a huge load off our minds and is making us want to just keep going and going. Great thought about the outside support, I agree. Who knows how far we could go with the greatest motorcycle company in the world supporting us!

@DarkKnight: For sure, having a support team following us would wreck the adventure. Thanks for the good words man. I’m still trying to encourage cavegirl to open up…..
 
Playas del Coco, Costa Rica!…….
Heidi and I rode from the Nicaraguan border to a beach in Costa Rica, Playas del Coco. After doing some research we were concerned that it may be a little expensive, so we didn’t know how long we would stay. We pull into town, find the beach and take a photo. This is lookin’ good……
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We proceed to ride around looking for a hotel. At the beach the only option we had was to turn left. We turn left on a sand road and ride along the beach for about 2 city blocks where the road ends at a foot bridge. Just before that I saw a place that looked like it could be a hotel. I turn the bike around in deep sand. An old guy hollers at us from the hotel and walks out to us. I stop the bike and he says this is the cheapest place in town and he is moving out today. He points to a room on the second floor with a large deck overlooking the beach. I go in and ask how much for a room for 2 people; $40/night. I ask how much if we stay a week; $30/night. Sweeeet! We Are On It!
In front of the hotel:
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Our bike sits behind a cage right in front of the office and below our room. The bike is happy, I’m happy.
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View from hotel deck: Heidi loves the beach and I’m prepared to sacrifice a little to give it to her. (I guess I can put up with this :)
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We get settled in. There is a small table on our deck overlooking the beach, time for some serious gin. We play ‘best record per country’ Heidi has kicked my A__ the last two countries and is up 3 countries to my 2. With Heidi being one of the most competitive people I have ever known means I need to get my act together, Now!
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We play into the night while observing all the action happening below on the beach.
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Playas del Coco

Playas del Coco is a great place for hiking. Everywhere we go we hear Howler monkeys; sometimes we hear them in town and at our hotel. These monkeys make a loud ghoulie sound, like a sound from a horror flick. We were glad we finally saw the monkeys; they are not as scary looking as they sound.
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Beach Side Shoe Maintenance: The rocky trails of Northern Honduras really took its tool on my new ultra-light hiking shoes. Heidi was right; she knew they wouldn’t hold up. I find some household silicon glue that’s hopefully strong enough to do the repair.
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There are miles of beaches here. At low tide you can reach 3 beaches on foot by walking along the shore. A fourth beach can be reached by walking along a road.
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This is the kind of hiking Heidi likes.
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It’s a 2 hour walk from end to end, great workout.
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It was a 4 hour round trip to the black volcanic beach. But that included some time to enjoy an umbrella pineapple drink. We almost shared a taxi back with two French girls who made the same hike but decided at the last minute to walk back. It always seems shorter on the return leg.
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We notice some cool patterns in the sand that were made from the retreating tide. This would make a good motorcycle paint job. (Woo… I think the endorphins have kicked in)
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Futbol is big down here. These guys are good.
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A 100 feet from our room is a big futbol field. There are games here every night.
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Future futbol stars.
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Playa del Coco is a small beach village. Sunday when we first arrived there were a lot of locals down at the beach. Since we have been here the locals have far outnumbered the tourists, just the way we like it. Walking into town a block or two there are several upscale bars, restaurants and hotels, it’s a nice mix. In the bay there’s a lot of commercial fishing boats moored along with over a dozen cruising sailboats.
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All day long there is a lot of activity on the beach, dinghy’s carting out people or ice or water or supplies to the fishing boats and sailboats. We wonder what is in those huge sacks.

How can this small boat stay afloat with all that stuff?
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Just up the beach from us a fishing boat is getting ready to launch.
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Every day we have seen several people get stuck in the sand. There is never a shortage of people willing to help get the vehicles unstuck. It’s a beautiful sight.
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Just past our hotel is a small creek with a foot bridge that leads to a couple of Punta bars that are right on the beach. We enjoy watching all the girls and the action going back and forth.

On the way back crossing the bridge one of the girls asked me if I needed anything. When she passed Heidi she asked me if I wanted two…..?
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La Vida Loca (The Crazy Life) I guess that fits. This bar has a top location, right on the beach secluded from town. It seems like it’s on it own private beach, except when all the people start driving past the ‘No vehicles on the beach” sign and park in front of the bar. Well I guess that kind of adds to the allure.
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The Buda and we wait for the sunset.
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Playas del Coco:
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Again Costa Rica has a different feel from the other Central American countries we have been to. Yes, the scenery is different, the smell is different but there is something else, it just doesn’t feel like we are in a foreign country. The buildings are more modern, stores, gas stations, everything seems less primitive. We haven’t seen a single horse drawn cart since we’ve been here. Also there is no indigenous culture, no colorful handmade clothing, nothing that shouts out “You are in a foreign land!” We both feel like this is going to be easy, nothing seems unfamiliar now. Is it because we have been traveling for so long through exotic lands, is it because Cost Rica is just more prosperous? We are not completely sure. But, we have to remember that we are far, far from home and need to not become complacent.


The Ride Continues…………………
 
Ready to go:
Playas del Coco, we are on the bike by around 7:00 AM. People are up and about. The roads coming in here are in good shape, we are hoping for more of that as we ride south. While continuing along the Pacific coast we decided to skip the beach village Tamarindo. The decision was easy. Reports of being crowded and over priced is one thing but most of all, the beach lost it’s ‘blue flag’ status meaning the water is too polluted. Not the kind of beach I envision running into the ocean and taking a nice long swim in. There are a lot of clean and less crowded beaches further south. We ride on.
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ATM:
The roads are in OK condition south of Coco, a lot of bumpy sections but at least ‘no big potholes’. Twists and turns through hills and jungles. What’s not to like. At Nicoya I stop at the National Bank and try to get some cash from an ATM. Primary card, first backup card, second backup card, all failed to give me cash. This is nothing new. Most of the ATM’s in Central America have a mind of their own. I do a U-turn and ride toward the center of town. Not too far into town I see another bank. I recognize The ATM logo as being one that has worked in the past. Primary card worked. First backup card worked. We are ready to proceed.

#Note:
You may have a big daily limit on your card back home but all ATM’s I have tried south of the border have a max withdrawal that is much less. But, you can max out, and then try it again and sometimes you will get more cash. I used 2 cards this time to verify they still both work. It’s part of the operation. ‘We must periodically test and verify all ‘mission critical’ systems.

Now:
We have ‘base camp’ setup. We are now prepared to explore the country. Heidi and I are talking about what month we should ‘be in’ South America. We are concerned that if we wait for the ideal season we won’t have enough time for the continent. This means our time in Costa Rica is limited. We give ourselves 30 more days to ‘Do It’

Our ‘central america on a shoestring’ guide book is under half its original size and weight. I ripped out everything except Costa Rica and Panama. I went through some old paperwork and threw most of it out. Our two fuel bottles and ‘world’ camp stove are getting ‘off loaded’ here. We both gave away some good clothes and a couple of nick-knacks to a maid in Nicaragua. We are using up soaps that I stashed away from hotels. We are carrying less water now because no camping. I will look over my sockets. Maybe a wrench or two can go. I’ll have to experiment. The bike continues to get lighter. I can feel the tingle. I know we will make it. Heidi doesn’t want me to get too cocky and I agree, we must stay vigilant, but I can just taste it. One country away from Panama, then just a 2 hour plan ride and we are in South America. :jose

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Monteverde:
Up in the higher elevation rain forest around Monteverde are some of the best nature parks. Heidi and I devote a day to see if we can ride up there and do some hiking. We have the “National Geographic Adventure map” of Costa Rica and it is an extremely detailed map. But that’s not always a good thing. We will see.

We were on the road early while it was still cool, perfect for riding. We ride on the ‘bumpy, hilly and twisty’ jungle road toward the mainland. Can Do. The bike is down to ‘bare bones’. All we are carrying are our tooth brushes, hiking shoes, shorts and T-shirt plus ‘All My Tools”. The bike almost feels like a toy. I tell Heidi that even with her on it feels like a toy. She likes that…..

We pass a few ‘sweet beaches’ on our way from base-camp.
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Riding along the Pacific coast here is incredible.
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Starting to ride inland I was surprised by all the deforestation. It is still a scenic ride.
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We thought we needed to take a ferry. At a fork in the road a few miles before the river a guy in a pickup truck waved to us and pointed us down the other road. He was trying to let us know, that is the way to go. Our map shows a ‘future bridge’ location just about where we were directed. I discuss the situation with Heidi, we proceed on with confidence. El Puente de Amistad de Taiwan.

The bridge was built and financed by Taiwan, with help from Costa Rican engineers and workers. It’s in the province of Guanacaste and crosses the Tempisque River.

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Continued:

The road is getting steep now and is down to the width of one decent US vehicle lane. I have to keep a close lookout for those big trucks coming down fast and taking up the whole road around turns. The bigger guy always wins.
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The road turns to rock and big stones. The map shows we just hit a border of a steep protected area. We may have about 11 miles of this before Monteverde. The secondary roads on the map all look the same. It may be paved, it may not.

Steep and steeper, I’m dodging huge boulders and gullies. I actually had to come to a complete stop and clutch it to get going again. An SUV was coming down and we were skipping from side to side in big ruts. I get a jab from Heidi meaning ‘try to stop soon’. I find a flat spot. Heidi said she just needed to catch her breath.
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The road gets worse. I find the closest thing to a flat spot and have a chat with my partner. I say “We tried” Heidi agrees. There is a longer and hopefully easier way to get there. We will try another day. This was still a nice ride.
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We turn it around. I’m glad I like off-road riding…….
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Sometimes we catch the most exotic smells riding through Costa Rica. It’s not like anything I’ve smelled before in ‘real life.’
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We passed several small communities on our ride today. Several have ‘open air’ restaurants that are alongside the road. On the way back we pick a cross-roads area that had a lot of big trucks parked. The Pan-American Highway comes though here. The food was good, the chillin’ was good. Sometimes are most enjoyable rides are ones that don’t go according to plan.
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“oooooo - The Ride Continues…..oooooo”
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“oooooo - The Ride Continues…..oooooo”
 
Re: Continued:

Hi Guys, just catchin' up on what you've been up to, just thought I'd say hello, keep livin the dream and be safe.
 
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