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No Return Ticket – Just a Ride Report /w Pics

I love the paint jobs on the buses here. They’re called ‘Diablos Rojos’ (Red Devils)
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Back to the hotel.
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Six hour walking tour of Panama City central. What a great time.
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We stop by the bike shop to see if the bike is ready.
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Ten minutes later the bike rolls out.
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The ‘Rat Bike’ hasn’t been this clean since we left Hayward Wisconsin. This was a totally pleasant experience except when I had to pay the bill. The prices of the tires were astronomical. But at least they are the best quality tires and the cost of installation was cheap. We are now ready for the road ahead and in more ways then one!
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The Ride Continues…
 
That is awesome. I'm glad you guys decided to live it up a bit in Panama! I'm with Heidi, it would be hard for me to leave that view too! Thanks for the great pix and awesome adventure.
 
We head out of Panama City

During our walking tour of Casco Viejo we saw a road sign for the Pan American bridge, the bridge we need to cross to get out of town. Great, we start riding down the malecon (Ave Balboa) toward Central Ave. This is where we saw the road sign to the bridge. Well somehow we got off Ave Balboa and had to circle around and around the central business district but we did finally find the bridge and get out of town, not too much trouble.

We’re shooting for Santiago or David today, two larger cities along the Pan American highway that should have a good selection of hotels to choose from. The highway here is in great shape and the traffic is surprisingly light. The bike is riding smooth. We have two new tires and fresh oil. We are confident we have everything we need to complete the return leg of our Central American adventure. It’s a good feeling.

We tool into Santiago just before 3:00 PM. Our rule is to start looking for lodging anytime after 2:00 PM. This is to guarantee we never run the risk of riding in the dark. Just before town I see a hotel with great parking security and an Olympic size pool. At $24 a night we had no problem moving in. A long swim and a long walk into town is just exactly what we like after a days ride. Walking into town we passed several restaurants. We ‘check out’ a cafeteria line at a large bus stop in town. Bus stops always seem to have great food at good prices. We get two huge plates to go (para llevar) of mixed rice, tender beef and carrots and fried plantains (Arroz mixto, carne asada y platanos) for $1.30 a plate. A couple beers at a store near the hotel and we are set. The food was great and the beers hit the spot.

We’re engaging in spirited discussions now about our adventures ahead. Its unbelievable how ‘fired up’ we are for our ride back through Central America AND how ‘fired up’ again we are for reaching South America. In Panama City we purchased a new 2007 Central America guide book. As we worked our way down through Central America we admitted several times to each other that once we finish South America we know we will be in a big hurry to ride back home, probably wanting to ride a ‘bee line’ route, not wanting to stay anywhere in Central America or Mexico more than one or two nights. Now our discussions are about what new places we can visit that we missed the first time through. We’re talking about doing Tikal, Belize, Chiapas, Eastern Mexico, bla bla bla. It truly feels as if we have both been ‘charged up’ with new adventure adrenaline just like we are starting to plan this whole adventure all over again for the first time. We are both so lucky to have each other. I feel like we are some type of bionic machine, we operate as one. It’s like every time there’s a problem or fault in either of us we spawn a new mechanism that’s designed to deal with that issue so the mechanism (us) can continue its mission. No organism or machine is designed perfectly from the start. It survives and prospers only by adapting to new and changing environments and conditions. (Wow! I better have another coffee)

We are in no big hurry again today. We plan to ride to the mountain village Boquete, about a five hour ride. A few people in Panama City have mentioned Boquete to us. They said it’s a beautiful area and the climate is much cooler than Panama City. Our guide book also raves about the place.

A slow morning drinking coffee, reading and swimming. When I ride along I usually like to get a big breakfast in me before I hit the road so I can ride long and hard. With Heidi onboard I have developed a different riding style. We try to get on the road between 7:30 and 8:30 AM and put some miles on before we look for food. This is working well for Heidi. I still like to ‘pound down’ some dried fruit, nuts or a breakfast bar before we hit the road so that’s working for me also. Anyway, we ride for a couple hours then eat at a small cafeteria style restaurant at a rural gas station. We each have a couple $.30 Pollo empanadas (chicken meat pies), our favorite and a cappuccino.

We’re on the Pan American highway. The traffic is still light. It starts to sprinkle and the sky looks really dark ahead. We pull over to suit up in our rain gear.
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A couple hours later we pull off the Pan American at David and start heading north into the mountains. An hour later we stop at a modern coffee shop overlooking the village Boquete. This is looken’ good…..
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Boquete main street:
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We ride all around town ‘checkin’ out’ hotels. Our guide book talked about a place right on the river but it wasn’t open for business. All the other hotels in town either did not look desirable or they didn’t have adequate parking security. We head out of town on the other side. We see this place (photo below) which is right on the river and has great parking. It looked expensive so we keep riding. All the other hotels we looked at were too far out of town for our liking so we ride back to see if we can swing a deal. It’s $66 a day or $42 a day if we stay a week. Well, Boquete is said to be the best area in Panama for hiking and sight seeing. No problem, a week here sounds good.
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Oh yeah! We get the best room in the hotel with a large patio jetting out over the rushing river, rio Caldera.
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Villas Lorena. We have a kitchen, living room and loft bedroom. Liken’ life……
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We have fun hanging out on the patio watching all the horse and foot traffic going across the bridge into town and back.
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We walk into Boquete once or twice a day. The center of town is 5 or 6 city blocks from our hotel. Today we take a camera. Enjoy….

Three or four guys have been working everyday on building a sidewalk into town. They always enjoy exchanging greetings with us.
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Boquete:
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This is the menu of our favorite restaurant in Boquete. It’s cafeteria style and is always a buzz with locals. The food is fantastic and is so inexpensive it’s hard to justify cooking. A full breakfast (Desayunos) is $1.25, empanadas $.25, a big plate of tender beef and potatoes (Carne Asada con Papas) $1.00, a great cup of coffee $.25. We like Panama…..
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This is a good place to buy fruit.
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So is this. I get a pineapple for $.50
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There are two parks in the center of town.
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Park #2
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The hotel has two resident dogs and three cats. This guy is stationed next to the bike every morning when we get up and every time we return to the hotel.
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There’s an 11 KM loop up into the hills around Boquete. Here we go…

There are rows and rows of coffee plants everywhere we look.
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And flowers
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We pass several coffee plantations
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We see several rivers.
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The only volcano in Panama is just outside of Boquete, Volcan Baru. The volcano summit is surrounded by a national park cloud forest. It’s a steep 15 KM hike up to the park trailhead. Our guide book talks about taking a taxi to the trailhead but Heidi and I decide to devote a day hiking up to the trailhead so we don’t miss any local action along the way. We will devote another day to hiking the park and take a taxi then.

We start climbing….
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I like hiking with Heidi. Can ya tell?
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The air is filled with the scent of pine and flowering coffee plants.
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Pine trees, palm trees, banana trees and cactus plants. This is cool.
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We were sitting along side the road resting when we these guys pop up next to us.
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It looks like they just finished harvesting this potato field. The younger boys are carting off the sacks of potatoes to a pile near the road while the old man plows the field. He was almost finished plowing the field in one direction. When we returned back down the road he was plowing in the other direction. It sounded like he had his own language for communicating with the bulls. It was musical.
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We passed dozens of small households on our way to the park. We received a warm greeting from everyone we came across.
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Going back down. This was a great hike and we got a huge workout.
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Pine trees and hibiscus.
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Almost back down to Boquete. We both feel like we are walking funny now.
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Heidi saw a hot spring mentioned in the guide book and wants to do it. The guide book says to take a taxi. Its ten miles down one road, 6 miles down another road and a 45 minute hike from the town Caldera. We both agree, what fun is taking a taxi to somewhere where we can take public transportation.

OK, here we go. We board a bus in Boquete heading south. The bus drops us off in the middle of nowhere at an intersecting road leading to Caldera. Two locals were standing at the intersection. Heidi asks them if it’s too far to walk to Caldera. They say “Si” We start walking and the first pickup truck stops and offers us a lift.
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This truck seems to serve as local transport.
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We get dropped off right in Caldera near the trailhead to the hot spring (Pozos termales) Sweet…
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It’s a decent road at first.
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Mostly horse traffic.
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I first thought this color was from copper. On the way back we figured it was from sulfur.
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We pay one dollar each to a local owner. We had the whole place to ourselves.
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This is cool, or I should say ‘hot’
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Heading back.
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We still have a couple more hikes planned along with another bus adventure to a local village. Then it’s one more destination in Panama before we bike back across into Costa Rica.

The Ride Continues…
 
David:
We take a bus to David, 30 miles down the mountain. Heidi needs a new pair of jeans and I need new hiking shoes in a bad way. Walking around downtown David I felt like I was part of a roaming freak show. Heidi with her cool new tattoo undershirt was attracting more stares and turning more heads then I have ever seen. People with dropping jaws and tattooed guys wanting to show her their tattoos. I was walking tall…
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There are a ton of shoe stores in David but finding a pair size 11.5 was my biggest challenge. I finally find a light pair of soccer shoes for under $20. Heidi finds a pair of cool looking jeans, $12.

I feel a little weird. I don’t want to ‘like shopping’ but this is working for me ;)
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Not my first pick but they were cheap, light weight and have good bottoms.
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Some general thoughts on Panama:
The conditions of the roads we have ridden in Panama have ranged from good to great. And the traffic has always was on the light side, except in downtown Panama City of course.

The infrastructure in Panama is more modern and clean than the other countries we have been in. I have actually been drinking the tap water here.

This is the first country we have seen cement mixers and lawn mowers, opposed to people mixing cement by hand on the ground and using machetes to trim grass.

The police in Panama have been professional and courteous to us. Only once did we have to show our passports. Twice we didn’t have to show anything, just chitchat.

The prices in Panama are dramatically lower compared to Costa Rica. We can buy a full breakfast at a Panama restaurant for $1.25. The food here is our second favorite next to Mexico. A bottle of Panama beer in a bar is $.50, this is worth repeating, a bottle of Panama beer in a bar is $.50

The people we have run across in Panama have been some of the friendliest we have meet on this trip, hands down. We receive constant greetings while walking on the streets, at the markets, everywhere. People have smiled more and talked more with us here then anywhere we have been on this trip. It’s hard not to notice. While stopping in a locals bar in Boquette we get the same treatment. Someone helped us find a table to sit down at. A guy at a bar stool gets up and moves so we could see the world football match on TV better. Heidi was the only girl in the bar. She gets a napkin wrapped around her beer.

We like Panama a lot...

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On to Costa Rica:
It’s Sunday morning and we’re not sure if customs at the border crossing at Rio Sereno is open today. So, we decide to enjoy a slow morning in Boquete while preparing for a short ride to David or La Conception. We will look for a place to spend the night there.
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On the way we stopped at a large English used book store. I took the bus here yesterday and verified it’s open on Sunday. Heidi was in book heaven and stocked up on several. I asked the owner if he knew of any hotels in La Conception. He suggested we may like the village Volcan much better and he knew of a few good hotels there. Volcan is even closer to the border and is high up in the mountains in a cooler climate. Sounds good, Volcan here we come. The weather report for David and for San Jose Costa Rica called for 80% chance of thunderstorms on Monday, we figured wherever we stay Sunday night we may end up spending two nights while waiting out the storms.
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La Conception is a nice looking little village but it’s less then two hours from Boquete. We were glad to keep riding and head up into the mountains. The ride from La Conception to Volcan is a steady climb through forest and several small villages. The vegetation continued to get denser and lusher as we climbed and neared the cloud forest. It’s a slow ride but sweet. The hotel recommended to us looked nice but we didn’t see any parking. We continue to ride around town and spotted a few other places, none looked that great. Next we ride toward the other end of town and see a place with small cabins and parking, it’s about a mile out of town. It was expensive so we headed back into town to look closer at some other places. All the other places were either not open for business or didn’t have parking. Back at the expensive place we look at a cabin just before paying. The cabins are so small and cramped that no matter what the price, I didn’t want it.

Back in town we check out the a few more places and find a quiet little but suspicious looking resort with small cabins, some private, some duplex, $20 a night. There’s a large bar in the middle of the grounds. The place seems like its seen better days. The bike is parked right outside our door under a canopy roof. We haul a small table and a couple chairs outside under the canopy and proceed to complete our Panama gin tournament. Again I lose and am way behind overall. Outside we’re listening to bugs, birds, ducks and chickens. A couple ladies finish cleaning a cabin and walk across the lawn. I exclaim to them “muy tranquilo” (Very peaceful) One woman answers back (This is my translation) “Yes, but the bar opens at six and later there’s dancing” Heidi and I look at each other, Humm…
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We didn’t feel good about leaving the bike alone so Heidi settles in with her book while I walk into town. I stop at an internet café to check the weather for tomorrow. Great, the forecast calls for only 20% chance of rain. We will be on our way to Costa Rica tomorrow. Heidi is going to be happy to hear that.

I walk into a hoppin’ pool bar on the main drag. There are a dozen or more pool tables, all occupied. I find an open stool at the end of the bar. A few guys give me a friendly greeting when I sit down. I down a beer while engaging in a little chit-chat. Before I finish my beer a local guy next to me buys me another, real nice. After chatting in Spanish a little I finished my beer. I order my new friend one and explain I need to ‘take off’ and buy a pizza ‘to go’ for my wife, or else. “Necesito comprar una pizza para llevar para mi esposa, ahora! Gracias por la cerveza amigo” I show up back at the hotel a hero, the best pizza we’ve had on this trip so far.

Heidi and I kick back with a book while we listen to the bar at the hotel come to life. Cars were driving through the grounds till late. We heard some of the weirdest techno Latin jungle music we have ever heard. There were couples going in and out of the cabins till 2 AM. Our first clue about this place was when we saw the sign saying ‘Hotel Abierto 24 Horas’ (Hotel open 24 hours)
 
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