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No Return Ticket – Just a Ride Report /w Pics

WOW!! I'm not sure what else to say! I have been reading this thread for a while and finally caught up to the now. Your adventure has been amazing to read and the pic's have been excellent. You really have an eye for photography and your narration is right on key! Leaves me feeling jealous but I am glad that you have been able to keep us along for the ride, what a real treat! Stay safe and keep up the awesome ride! Glad you are both ok after takin a spill!! :cheers
 
Cave, we have'nt heard anything for a few days, hope you two are OK. And the trip is still going well. Take care, and hope to hear from you soon. Fuzz
 
Thanks for the great words all and yes, everything is still good down here :) Hey Fuzzman, good timming
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Jaco to La Cruz:
We enjoyed a couple nice days in Jaco Costa Rica. It felt good knowing that after my bracket repair our left pannier is attached stronger than ever.

Heidi and I like to cross a border early in the morning when things hopefully aren’t as busy and the border workers aren’t as tired from anxious travelers and fatigued from the heat. So that means we try to stage ourselves close to the border the night before we cross. Today we shoot for La Cruz, a small community near the Nicaragua border where Heidi and I ate breakfast the first time we crossed into Costa Rica. I thought I remembered a good hotel right on the main highway.

The ride to La Cruz was uneventful, just good roads, good weather and one friendly police stop. I first ride to where I thought the hotel is I remembered. No hotel, just a restaurant. We ride in town and circle around a few times. We didn’t see any hotels that looked like they had parking. I had to finally stop and ask a hotel if they had a place for us to park. The first place had an entrance in a back ally we didn’t know about with courtyard parking, $15 for a big room with a full size refrigerator and a spacious outside sitting area. We are set.
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The Nicaragua Border Con:
We are up early the next morning and ride to the Nicaragua border. We have a clear memory where every building is and where we need to go. Heidi and I rehearse together what we have to do at the border. We are always a little jittery preparing for a border but this time we are feeling pretty good. The Costa Rica aduana is in an obscure spot and if we didn’t know where it was it would be real confusing.

We pull into the Costa Rica aduana and get the bike un-declared with ease. Next we park in front of the immigration building and get our exit stamp from Costa Rica in less then 5 minutes. Before getting the exit stamp a change guy offers to change some money. I had $100 in twenties ready to go and I knew the rate. Knowing the exchange rate and exchanging an even $100 makes it easy, just move the exchange rate decimal point over two places. OK, I ask the exchange rate from the changer. He quotes me a fair rate. I say I want to change $100 then ask him “how much?” He tells me the correct amount in colones. Then he counts out the colones (Costa Rica currency) in his hand. I assume he counted out what he quoted. He hands me the colones, I hand him the $100. I count out the colones. I was short. I look at him and say “Hey!” He starts whipping out more colones like he was planning on doing that all along. The Con! The amount he counts out for me to make the transaction complete and correct was off by one decimal point and I did not catch it. I got taken for $35 and didn’t even figure it out until later that day when I realized I only had $50 worth of colones after I spent $15. I was so pissed. I couldn’t let it go. It’s not that $35 is a huge amount but I think the big thing for me is that he used a tried technique on me, me, the guy who was ready to not get ripped off. I felt so stupid. I didn’t want to admit it to Heidi but I just had to. I had to do something to help ‘let this go’. I’m over it now (mostly) but this will ‘Not Happen Again!'
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I pay $2.50 and get my Nicaragua fumigation.
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Nicaragua has tried hard to get their customs process streamlined. Someone from customs comes right out to the parking lot and hands us the forms. A helper then shaves off a least an hour and a lot of hassle by getting us expedited through the process. Immigration has to be completed before customs and the line for immigration was at least a half hour long. When I was done our helper gets Heidi in the ‘bus only’ immigration line and gets her in and out in 5 minutes. Sweet, we are done and are ready for Nicaragua…
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About an hour into Nicaragua a guy on a Yamaha DT175 catches up to us in a village and yells out “Are you from Wisconsin” We confirm. Then he says “I know you from AdvRider!” Holy cow, I motion for him to pull over. He is going to email us and until then I will not even attempt to spell his name. Anyway this fellow advRider is from France and he and his wife have lived in Minneapolis for 10 years. Small world, we talk about Minneapolis and where we both lived there. He was riding to Granada for the day. How cool is that, we just run into him on the road in Nicaragua!
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The first time through Nicaragua we hit most of the places we were interested in except Matagalpa. We were planning on just riding to Esteli today where we stayed before. We know the town. We know where the hotel is with good parking and is close to downtown. But then Heidi suggests we try something new (gotta love her). Matagalapa here we come…

We hit a little rain through most of Nicaragua but just after we pulled off the main highway and started climbing into the hills toward Matagalapa it started to pour. Then it started to really pour. I have never ridden in such hard rain ever. The road was almost new and has a good curve on it so the water didn’t pool up but my face shield stared fogging up to the point where I had to lift it up. Good thing the down pour didn’t last long or else I would have had to pull over somewhere for safety.

The road to Matagalapa is so new some of the bridges aren’t completed yet. I could feel Heidi twitching while we approached the muddy water crossing. She said “Do you want me to get off?” I tell her “No, I can do this” She trusts me. I can feel the pressure (I Better Not Spill!)
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We just pull into town and I can see the rain coming at us up ahead. I do a 180 and ride to a car dealership we just passed and pull under a vacant overhang. It starts pouring again. Good timing.

After a while a guy from the dealership comes out to talk with us. He asks all about our trip then starts to tell us how important what we are doing is, visiting lots of different cities in different countries. He talks about how you can not learn what we are learning by working a high paying job and buying a lot of things. He talks for at least 15 minutes really getting deep and philosophical. He was a real pleasure.
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Random acts of kindness:
The rain ended so we proceeded to ride around town looking for a hotel. This is a larger and busier city then we anticipated. The traffic was heavy and the streets are all one-way. We circle around and around the city a few times. While riding along a downtown back street a taxi behind us starts beeping and motioning for us to pull over. We did and he tells us that something is not secure on the bike. Heidi jumps off and sees her pannier pad locks just hanging, not locked. We waved and thanked the taxi driver as he rode by. How nice is that. One of the best and most memorable things about this trip has been these random acts of kindness that we have experienced. We have been given so many that we can’t even begin to list them all. They fill our hearts will joy and prove to us that people are basically good. Hopefully we will pay it forward.

Still looking for a hotel we were on our third run down main-street. I finally pull over between two parked cars and flag down a passing empty taxi. I ask him if he knows of a hotel with secure parking for a motorcycle. He confirms he does and despite honking cars behind him he proceeds to tell us where it is. I quickly ask him to show us and say I will pay. He gives a quick thumbs-up and motions for us to follow. We get guided to a hotel that we would have never found on our own, just at the edge of downtown. We give him $2.50. He rode off waving and waving back at us through his rear window.
 
This is in front of our hotel. Heidi and I take a walking tour of the city.
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There’s a food-stand setup next to the bridge. People are doing their wash down by the river
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There seems to be some type of celebration at the central park today.
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Potato sack race.
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It’s hard to see but that’s a blindfolded kid swinging a stick at a piñata bobbing up and down.
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We find out what the celebration is, ‘first annual national day of the potato’. Cool…
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The park was set up with displays.
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Another event, ‘Sack of Potatoes race’.
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This guy totally ran out of gas just yards before the finish. He finally had to drop it and a kid nearby picked up the sack and finished for him. Every one was having a good time. There was food and beer tents set up all around the park. It reminded me of a Wisconsin event.
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This band was jamming some really funky music.
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We had a good time in Matagalapa but it was time to go.
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Every night here we got a lot of rain. Heidi again was understandably a little concerned about this water crossing.
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We’re shooting for a town close to the Honduras border today, Ocotal. During a long days ride I never like to pass up a good shady turnoff spot to pull off the road, look over the map, drink some water, hug and kiss and just chill a bit. Heidi’s into it to.
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The first hotel we see in Ocotal was perfect. Nice clean rooms, secure courtyard parking and a pool, $30. We can handle this….
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After a good swim we prepare to explore the city. --->(click on this one)
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This is Sunday. He is not the only person we saw sleeping on the street today. Humm…..
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Beautiful park. Our guide book says this is the best example of a northern Honduras village without tourists.
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Market.
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Tomorrow we cross into Honduras.

The Ride Continues…….
 
Honduras Border Crossing:
We had the alarm set for 5:00 AM at our hotel in Ocotal. Border crossings are always a big question mark as to how long they will take. We are looking at a long ride today so that’s why the early start. The plan is to ride through the capital city Tegucigalpa the same day we cross. Then deep into southwestern Honduras to an area we haven’t ridden before.

First we stop at a gas station convenience store right next to the hotel, V-8 juice, yogurt, a croissant and coffee, we are set. The border is only 25 miles away now. This is a small and we think, not too busy crossing. We hope we will be one of the first vehicles to clear through.

We get to the border before 7:30 AM. I hand our Nicaragua motorcycle customs papers to the Nicaragua official. He takes the papers then lowers the chain and lets us pass forward. We ride ahead and park in front of the immigration building. The bike is right next to the building so no need for Heidi to stand guard by the bike. We pay $3 each and get our Nicaragua passport exit stamp. The Honduras immigrations office is in the same building in an adjoining room. The Nicaragua immigration guy hands the Honduras immigration guy our passports. We pay $6 to him and get our passport entrance stamp for Honduras. That was just too smooth.

Now I ride forward to the next building, Honduras aduana (customs) to declare the bike. First I change the $100 in twenties I had ready. No rip-off attempt this time. Next a young well mannered guy behind the aduana counter takes my title and passport and fills out my motorcycle customs paper. 10 minutes later he hands me the form and rattles out some rapid Spanish, I didn’t quite understand. He motions me to go down the building to pay. I walk to another window and that guy motions me back to the original window. Back at the first window the first guy walks me outside passed the Honduras border chain and behind some buildings and down an alley. He points to a blue building and says something about paying there but nobody is there right now. I need to wait. I sit back and wait. 10 minutes later a guy shows up at another building and I think tells me I need to go back to the aduana office. Back at the aduana office the same guy who filled out my paper work tells me something else. I wait. 10 minutes later he walks back out and says the bank does not open until later but I can pay him. He hands me a slip of paper with itemized hand written amounts totaling $29.00. Heidi is right there with me next to the bike and quickly waves him off. She says in Spanish “We will wait for the bank to open. We need a receipt” The guy smiles and walks back inside. A few minutes later a young kid with an official aduana helper badge around his neck offers to help. At this point I was ready for a little help. Everything was low key here and not at all busy. I give the kid an OK and hand him my filled out aduana papers, title and passport. Heidi is ‘freaking out’ saying this is just exactly what we don’t want to do. I tried to assure her that everything is mellow here and he is the only helper around. I tell her that I don’t think we will have a problem here. The kid walks around the chain into Honduras and behind the buildings where the first guy led me to. 5 minutes later the kid rushes back to me and says that the bank will not be open until 9:00 AM but that if I’m in a hurry I should give him $40 and he will get it done right now. Now I change modes from ‘mellow and all is cool’ to my ‘No fricken way, give me back all my papers right now’. Heidi and I both tell him that we are in no hurry “No tenemos prisa” The kid got the message. Now he starts telling me what I need to do. I need a copy of this and that and this. I had everything except a copy of my passport exit stamp from Nicaragua. He walks me to two copy buildings before finding one that was open. Next he walks me to the bank (which WAS open at 8:00 AM) I hand the bank guy all my papers and copies. He says I owe $29.00. I pay. The bank guy puts a hand full of stamps on my motorcycle aduana papers and hands them back to me. All the while my helper was trying to intercept the papers coming back to me. I assured him to not worry and that I will pay him when I’m all done. I give him a ‘knuckle knock’. He smiles and relaxes.

Next my helper walks me back to the first guy who filled out my aduana papers. I hand him my stamped papers. He puts his own stamp on the papers then fills out another small piece of paper and puts a stamp on that. I get everything handed back to me and am told I’m done. Sweet! Now I pull out a wad of bills I had ready in my pocket ($6 and a few coins) and hand it to my helper. He smiles while a few guys hanging around him are asking how much he got. Everyone is happy…
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During one of my waiting sessions this kid offers to shine my boots. They needed it bad and I was glad to give him a job.
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We are all done and on our way into Honduras. I ask my shoe shine friend to take a photo. He was glad to.
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Heidi and our shoe shine friend:
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Honduras:
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The scenery here is breathtaking.
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We make it through Tegucigalpa. Knowing the name of the highway you want to connect with does you no good here. There are no highway markings at all other then indications of cities you want to go to. I knew this now and looked on the map ahead of time for the biggest city on the highway we wanted to take out of town, which was San Pedro Sula. We are not going anywhere near San Pedro Sula but I had a feeling it would be indicated on road signs in Tegucigalpa, I was right. We kept following turnoffs to San Pedro Sula and made it out of this huge city with no problems.

The scenery kept getting better the further we rode into Honduras. Beautiful mountain roads lined with pine trees and cut rock. The roads are in great shape here and we were making good time. My butt was sore and I’m looking for a good place to pull over and rest. I get a ‘single jab’ signal from Heidi meaning ‘pull over at the next safe spot’. We were both ready for a break.

This ‘middle of nowhere’ gas station didn’t look open at first but was. There is a small store here and a guy selling sandwiches to whoever pulls through.
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The sandwich guy (next to Heidi) enjoyed practicing his English while we practiced our Spanish. He worked in New Orleans for a year and told us all about it. He came back to Honduras to finish high school. He asked us all about our ride and translated our bad Spanish to his three friends. This was a nice break.
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Before 2:00 PM we pull off the main highway and start riding high up into the mountains toward the village La Esperanza. We could feel the temperatures dropping the higher we rode. We both should have put on more clothes but were just too anxious to get there.
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The ride kept getting better and better and the road is in great shape.
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We ride into town and start looking for a hotel with parking. After rejecting a few, Heidi sees a hotel that’s down a side street. The roads in town here are rough coble stone and are mostly one-way. We circle around and pull into a sweet spot near the center of town, Hotel Mina. Oh Yeah……
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We settle in then take a walk around town.

This is a mechanic shop right on the main street. The owners live on site. The kids have a bicycle ramp set up inside while the mother watches off to the side.
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We found three markets in town.
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It rained hard most of the night and the roads in town were sloppy wet. We had to ask directions to find our way out of town. First we are shooting for the village of Gracias today, another mountain village near a hot spring and hiking trails. It’s about a 50 mile ride. There we plan on having breakfast before heading on to the Copan ruins near the Guatemala border. It will be another long ride.
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We were hoping for more ‘great mountain roads’ on the way to Gracias. But No……
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At least the scenery is fantastic.
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The dirt road we are on is wet and Rough with a capital R. I did not get any photos of the steep sections of road riddled with deep gullies and big rocks. But let me assure you that this is some of the most challenging conditions we have ridden so far. I was ‘pulling out’ slow speed technical maneuvers left and right through some unbelievable terrain. Heidi again was right there being ’one with the bike and road’. It almost felt like I was riding ‘one up’. And I do have to say this 1995 Harley Davidson Sportster impressed me more than ever with how well it handled the extreme. I felt I should stay quiet about how much I’m enjoying this because I knew Heidi was having a rough time behind me but I did have to exclaim out loud once “Man, I am good!” Heidi gives me a little confirmation squeeze which felt ‘real good’. I’m falling in love more every mile.
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I can feel Heidi twitching a little whenever we approached the sloppy wet stuff. I don’t blame her one bit after I ‘wiped us out’ in Costa Rica. But she says nothing except “Let me know if you need me to get off and walk” I say “Don’t worry, I will!”
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This is the poorest area in Honduras. All the people we came across were smiling big and waving as we passed.
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I asked Heidi to walk through this one. She went first then helped me find the best route for the bike. After, we parked to chill a bit. A passing truck stopped to ask if everything was alright. We said “Todo Bien” and thanked them as we all waved goodbye.
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After a long 20 miles the road turned to rough pavement. Soon the pavement again turned to bumpy dirt less then 10 miles later. What a tease, we could not believe it! Back to bad and rough dirt.
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15 more mile of slippery sloppy mud, the sky is looking very dark ahead. It’s already past noon. We just want to make it to Gracias now in one piece……….
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The Ride Continues…….
 
Hey cave family I hope all is well. Looking forward to hearing from you two soon. You know, after trailing us along with your adventure its kinda like keeping up with family that is out on the road so be safe and enjoy every moment of it!!:cheers
 
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