No Return Ticket – Just a Ride Report /w Pics

[cavebiker]

A few more pics from La Paz:
Saturday we devote a day to a walking tour of the city while looking for a gym we lifted at 2 years ago.

After an hour of walking we finally find the gym. Since last time, they have cut the gym in half to accommodate internet terminals. The gym part looked so small and the music was blasting so loud we decided to skip it. We were getting enough of a workout with all the walking.

Saturday seems like the biggest day for shopping. We enjoy being part of all the action.

La Paz, Mexico

Cool La Paz dudes.

Sunday we head out for another mega walk. Less then two blocks from our hotel we see some adventure motorcycles. Heidi says “They have advRider stickers” I ask if they are adventure riders. I get a definite –Yes. I say “I’m cavebiker” Get this, I tell them we meet FlyingAdvanti yesterday. The guy says he has ridden with him and his brother worked with him. (Are we in the Twilight Zone?) Unreal!

We talk for a while about the rides we are on and some rides we have done. This couple did Panama with their daughter last year. How cool! And hope to do South America soon. We mentioned we did Scorpion Bay and had an H of a ride. They were with a group and said they all attempted Scorpion Bay but after 15 minutes turned back. A good confirmation that the trouble we had getting there was real…. :smoke

A few blocks later we stop for some breakfast. A couple of bikers were there eating. These guys were super nice and said they are from Cabo. After they left we were sure we have met one of the guys before, when we were on the ferry from La Paz to mainland Mexico two years ago with our jeep. To say this is a ‘small world’ doesn’t even come close to what we are thinking now.

We like La Paz….. (It's my wallpaper now)

More to come……

 

[cavebiker]

La Paz – Mazatlan :
We arrived at the ferry terminal early to clear customs for the motorcycle. One two three, everything went smooth. We are now set to enter mainland Mexico.

Across from the ferry terminal are a few taco trucks. Antijitos Juanita. These are the best tacos de carne asada we have had so far.

The bike is staged to go into the ferry.

I have fun chitchatting and practicing my Spanish with the dock workers while I wait to board. Nice guys. They have me board last so I’m the first to exit when we arrive in Mazatlan.

I park the bike tight against the wall of the ship. The panniers are almost touching the wall with the bike leaning the other direction on the kickstand. I’m confident I have the bike secured for the 18 hour journey across the Sea of Cortez.

A new rule allows only one person per vehicle to enter the vehicle hold. While we were apart Heidi met Matt. Matt is from San Fransico and quit his job to travel to Columbia to be caretaker for his neighbor’s house there. It’s right on the Caribbean Sea. Matt is taking his time busing through Central America and learning Spanish along the way. He says we have a free place to stay in Columbia. How nice is that!

For $36 we rent a cabin on board with bunk beds, bathroom and shower, well worth it.

This is the ferry heading for Topolobampo . This is a much larger and more modern ship. Heidi and I enjoy the character and abundant outside deck seating of our smaller older ferry. The Topolobampo ferry has no outside seating and only a small amount of standing room on deck.

The wind was blowing hard and the ship was rocking. The map we have shows the ferry route heading almost straight toward the mainland then down the coast. This night we hugged the Baja coast to the end, then across to the mainland. I was thinking this was because of the heavy weather.

The boat was rocking big time. It was difficult walking around the ship. I had a hard time sticking the key into our cabin lock. While in our cabin two glasses flew off a table along with some other stuff. I’m having concerns about the bike. The vehicle hold is locked down until we dock in Mazatlan so there is nothing I can do to secure the bike better. I’m wishing I parked the bike leaning toward the wall and secured it with rope or chain to the wall. It’s not going to do any good to worry about the bike so we just enjoy the cruise, sitting on deck watching the sunset and the waves.

Enjoying the sunrise.

Pulling into Mazatlan.

 

[cavebiker]

Local fisherman coming in with their catch.

Docked.

Heidi lines up with the on foot passengers to exit the ferry, I line up with the people waiting to go down into the vehicle hold. I have my fingers crossed.

I get down into the hold and see the bike upright on its kickstand but in a slightly different spot. Crap! it fell over. I knew it. I immediately scan over the bike to look for damage. The left front blinker was bent back, some rubber was ripped on the left foot peg, the handlebars were bent back and the steering column was cockeyed. I proceed to straighten the blinker. Good, no problem. I raise the handlebars, they raise way too easy. The bolts holding down the handlebars must have loosened over the last two months of riding. The handlebars were not bent, thank goodness. I’m sure the loose bolts saved the handle bars, YES. After tightening down the bolts I press the front wheel up against the wall of the ship and crank on the handlebars to straighten the steering. After several attempts I get the steering straight. Woosh, The bike lives!

Heidi and I spent over three weeks in Mazatlan two years ago while we were touring Mexico. We like Mazatlan. We tool up and down the malecon checking out several hotels, all expensive. Next we head to Hotel Del Sol, the same place where we stayed two years ago. Super, we get a large room with kitchenette, pool and a quiet courtyard offering great bike security. We pay for two nights.

 

[cavebiker]

Heidi didn’t sleep much on the ferry ride over so she settles into a well deserved nap. I head out on the bike to look for an internet café. The temperatures were hot. The traffic was slow. The bike kills. I get to the side of the road and shift into neutral. Looking at the dash I see no neutral light. Someone posted on advrider.com saying that the circuit breakers on Harley Davidson motorcycles reset in about 5 seconds. I stare at the dash lights. A couple seconds later the neutral light pops on. I hit the starter. The bike fires right up. Wow! This is huge. I replaced the ignition circuit breaker with a fuse, it can’t be that because fuses don’t reset. Any other possible problem, ignition sensor, ignition module, ignition coil would not cause the lights to go out. IT HAS TO BE THE MAIN CIRCUIT BREAKER! I’m not sure where this circuit breaker is but I need to replace it, ASAP. I am one happy dude, knowing I have a solid idea of what the bikes problem is and we are in a comfortable city and won’t mind staying here until we get a new part. I answer a few emails and upload some photos.

OK, again I’m not making any of this up. I hop on the bike and ride up the road toward our hotel. I pull into a store to buy some water and pop. After I get back on the bike, the ignition key will not turn to run, it only turns as far as accessory. I CAN’T BELIEVE THIS. I try for about a half an hour and no luck. I’m thinking it’s possibly the key, it looks pretty worn. I didn’t want to do it but I finally get out my tools and proceed to take part of the bike apart to retrieve the hidden key I have buried deep inside the bike. I should have taken a photo but I was just too frustrated. I get the key. I put the bike back together. I stick the key in the ignition. Same thing, it only turns as far as accessory. What is going on here? No one could have tampered with the bike while I was in the store. It was parked right in front of an all glass store front and I was only in there for a few minutes. No one could have tampered with the bike while I was in the internet café, the switch worked fine when I left there. What the heck!

I stay calm, thankful I’m only a few miles away from our hotel. I proceed to push the bike first along busy touristy store fronts then along the malecon. The temperatures were hot, the sun was blazing and I was sweating bullets. I’ve pushed many bikes many miles in the past but never a 1200 Harley Davidson half packed with gear. At this point I was glad I still lift weights and compete in marathon cross country races. I made it! The bike is not leaving the hotel in Mazatlan until I get this fixed. The adventure continues…….

Much more to come ……………………

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We are stuck here in Mazatlan (Bummer. he he) until we get a new 50 amp main circuit breaker and a new main ignition switch with a set of keys. I hope to here from a couple buddies in Murderapolis soon to see if they can order the parts and DHL them to us here in Mexicoooo. This is a real bummer but when we get back on the road again it will be sweeeeet times 10 for sure.

Staying at great a location, Mazatlan. Long beach in front of the hotel, health club close, Mexican food and culture everywhere. We will survive and continue this adventure, riding our --> 95' XL1200 !!!!! <---

A buddy from Minneapolis just DHL'ed the parts. We will have them Wed. O Yeah! Life is good.....Tecate please....The adventure continues......

 

[cavebiker]

Mazatlan:
It was a bright hot sunny day. We walk to the big mall and grocery store. The food alley has Wi-Fi, I need to get our buddies back home started on getting us some part numbers. We stock up at the grocery store, preparing to hunker down for as long as it takes and get this bike issue resolved.

I walk back to the mall several hours later to look for email responses, I have 2. One part, the part numbers agree. One part the numbers disagree. Crap, but cool. If you are trying to get critical parts shipped to you, in a foreign country, you need to have at least a double confirmation of the numbers, preferably 3.

Yes, the part number error is found ‘I have a double confirmation’ I assume I can just have the package sent to the DHL office here in Mazatlan but I’m not sure. I will feel more comfortable walking down to the DHL office tomorrow to get their exact address and all the correct info. ‘Been there, done that’ with international shipping. ‘If it isn’t done just right, it can go sooo wrong’

It’s almost dark while I walk into the hotel courtyard. Heidi is talking with a couple ‘adventure’ looking dudes. Kenny (left) and Dick (next to Heidi) These guys are great. They ran into Conchita, Brian, and Dan (2-up going down +1 South America’ people) they told them they were hoping to see the cave couple. Rocken! Conchita, Brian, and Dan are staying next door at Hotel Acuario.

Heidi and I are the only people at hotel Del Sol tonight. There are plenty of chairs in the court yard for us all to hang out and rap……. All Right! Let the high level, high energy adventure / lifestyle / technical discussions begin. We are all ‘ Fired Up’. Either ‘Been there, done that’ and are ‘doing it Now’ or ‘Going there and doing That, Now’. My brain is tingling. I want to hear what everyone is saying. Adventure verbiage is flying back and forth like wildfire in a wind storm. Dick and I should have done a flying chest bump right away and got it over with. I love talking with people like this. Everyone has good information and advice about just exactly what Heidi and I are doing. How Cool is that!

It is an honor to have this group of people, along with our ‘Rat Adventure Bike’ in our photo.

Later, we all went out, a nice place that’s about a block away. It Started All Over Again. The high discussion levels and the group size made it difficult for us all to maintain only one discussion flow. Different people engaged in different discussions. O yeah! We all seemed to have a great time.

I need to make my pitch to hotel Del Sol for an extended stay. I like to have ‘cash in hand’ for closing the deal, if the deal is right.

On the way back the ‘2-up going down +1, South America’ gang was getting ready to go. I had to rap a little.

Sweeet looking rig and adventure couple…………..

Dan’s automatic chain oil system got lose while riding through Copper Canyon. He is methodically getting it all just right again. Loooooking Good!

Stopping by to say goodbye.

OK!
Adventure Power, Let it Role…………

Returning from a 3 hour walking marathon of Mazatlan Zona Dorado area we run into Kenny and Dick. They were kind enough to offer to buy us dinner (how great) but we were too ‘toast’. Later we all meet for a beer and some more great talk.

 

[cavebiker]

Today Heidi and I walked down to the south end of the beach, toward old Mazatlan centro, while looking for a place on the malecon for breakfast.

Lots of construction around Mazatlan.

O…K…

We find a place ‘La BamBa’ Great food, big portions and right on the malecon. Recommended.

The more we walk away from Zona Dorado the more it turns into ‘Real Mexico’. We like it……. (Click!)

Getting close to Old Mazatlan Centro. It’s still early, the venders are all getting ready. These guys look like they carry the entire operation using the cart. The cart has a motorcycle front end.

I think this is a delivery truck / bike.

Heidi hopes this isn’t the fate of our bike. I bet her, this motor is coming back and it will ride again. I wonder?

If there is one thing Mazatlan has it’s police presence. New town, old town and in between, no one asks you to buy drugs. We have a ‘good feel’ where ever we walk in Mazatlan.

Heart of Mazatlan, Centro.

I gotta have it.

How much? (?cuanto cuesta?), (veinte) $1.90 OK…..

 

[cavebiker]

I decided I am not going to gut and peel anymore papayas while we are here. A big bag of fresh cut papaya hunks, 12 pesos ($1.09) We are liken Mexico.

Tacos are 12 or more pesos in the new part of town, 8 pesos here and 7 pesos other places. Some of the smallest stands have the best tacos and fixings.

We decided to take a city bus back home.

75 cents for a ride.

We get back to our hotel room and find this.

We remember almost the entire staff from two years ago. Hotel Del Sol, the people here are very professional and pleasant, the rooms are clean and spacious. We get nothing but help and smiles here. If you get a room around the pool you can pull the bike right in front of your room. Bike friendly parking is number one for us. Pool - number two. A super value even without an extended stay ‘special deal’

I read a reply on a thread in advrider from the strikingviking. He mentioned wide clear tape on road maps so they won’t get destroyed during a rain storm. We are ‘On that’.

Much more to come …………………

 

[cavebiker]

Mazatlan - Great place for walking

 

[cavebiker]

We have a small outside area in the back with a sink and cloths line. This guy likes to watch, he thinks he’s our helper.

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Repair pics:
After getting the email from my buddy with the good news, we marched straight to the DHL office. Parts in hand! I have to get to it, Now.

I create a small paradise right in front of our room.

The cables on the switch are too short. Just as well because the original wires run through a big wire harness and would be a big hassle to take the old wires out and fish the new wires in. The switch came with a kit to splice wires together. No Problem Mon……

I hate mechanical wire clamps but that’s all I had. I cut, strip and clamp the wires together. I use a vice-grip pliers to crimp the wires. It seemed to work just fine but I still wish I had soldered the wires.

Installing the new 50 amp main circuit breaker. O Yeah…..

A new dent. It must have happened on the ferry. The girls are fine, I like it.

 

[csmlopez]

What a great story, what a great documentary. This is what it is all about. SUper, you are my new hero.

Big Lou