Barra De Navidad:
Taking off from San Blas we were on the road by 7:30 AM, our earliest start since we entered Mexico. We were planning on a short ride to Puerto Vallarta today and hoped to find an inexpensive place to stay on the beach outside of town. We got to Puerto Vallarta super early but couldn’t find any place along the coast in out price range. It was early so we decided to continue on and shoot for Barra De Navidad, a pretty little tourist village on the Pacific coast.
Puerto Vallarta to Barra De Navidad was a heck of a ride. The scenery went from palm trees to pine trees to some type of large flowering tree. While riding along we would suddenly hear loud buzzing sounds, like swarms of crickets or something. It was weird. The road is super twisty, hilly and shaded with sections of huge pot holes. The pot holes were far enough apart to avoid if I could see them but in the dark shaded areas it was impossible to tell a pot hole from a dark shadow. Still we were lucky and only hit a couple of small holes, the big ones would have hurt for sure.
Waiting for some on-coming local traffic to pass.
9 hours later we made it into Barra De Navadad, around 4:30 PM. We were toast. The first hotel we tried was full, and this was a Sunday. We were glad we stayed an extra day in San Blas and didn’t try to travel and find a place on a Saturday. The next hotel we tried had vacancies and was a lot cheaper, $23 / night. We spent 3 nights in Barra De Navidad two years ago so we only stayed for one night this time. This is a very friendly and fun place to visit but we were looking forward to spending more time at places we haven’t been to before.
Barra De Navadad
It seemed weird not spending anytime in Barra De Navadad but we were anxious to push further south.
Before entering Mexico I planned on buying a 19 inch inner tube for emergencies, like if we get a flat and can’t stop the leak with a plug. I forgot to get one in Yuma AZ and have been planning on getting one in Mexico. I spent a good part of a day looking for a tube in Mazatlan but no luck. I will not leave Mexico without carrying a tube. Every town we travel through Heidi and I look for a motorcycle shop. We tool through the center of Manzanillo with the sole intent of finding a tube. This is a big city with confusing traffic but just before the end of town we see a large modern Honda motorcycle shop. I tell the guy at the parts counter what I want “Quiere camara de aire por moto. 19-100/90” He nods with assurance and heads back to the parts room. I give a huge silent cheer.
Oh Yeah!
We chewed up a lot of time in Manzanillo looking for a tube and getting lost. The next good destination, Playa Azul, is a long drive with not much in between. We decided to look for a hotel early in the day at Tecoman, a non-tourist Mexican town with a lively atmosphere and friendly feel. We find a nice place, Hotel Plaza.
Good food all around, cocktails in hand, pool at our feet and emergency inner tube in our backpack . Live is good…..
We hit the road early. We are shooting for Playa Azul today. I remember reading something about this place in the guide book we left at home.
We got super lost trying to get out of Tecoman. Arriving at our hotel we thought we never left the main highway. After zigzagging around some one-way, stone embedded residential streets we finally see what looks like a highway. After a few miles of nothing but palm trees we turn back to town and look for a gas station. I wanted a full tank because the map didn’t show much for the next 150 miles south. We had to go all the way past our hotel to find gas. After, we get back on the highway we ride through the palm tree groves again. About 8 miles later we hit a little beach village. When we reach the village and the Pacific coast the road turns right and heads back north. Crap, this is the opposite direction we need to be heading. Heidi and I are getting tense. She’s trying to read road signs and bark out which way we should go or not go. Heidi is getting mad because I’m having trouble hearing her, plus I have completely different ideas about which way we should go. After about 2 dozen topes (speed bumps) in a 1 km stretch, the road dead ends. Heidi yells out “You need to look at a map!” At this point I had to agree. OK, we are hosed, we shouldn’t be at the coast at all and need to head back to Tecoman, again, and find the correct highway south. When we get back to town I see a group of policemen at a small station. I stop, take off my helmet and one guy says “Como estas?” (How are you doing) I say “No muy bien” (Not very good) we are all smiling. I ask for directions to highway 200 south. The policemen were very helpful, using hand gestures saying “derecho, izquierda, derecha” (straight, left then right) This helped a ton. When we were on what we thought was the correct road I pull over one last time to look at the map. A guy walks up to us and offers help. He confirms that we are on the correct road for where we are trying to go. Sweeeet! People in Mexico have been so nice to us it’s sometimes overwhelming.
We hit a military check point and for the first time we get inspected. We open the panniers and a couple guys do a very minimal search through our stuff. The guys were friendly and asked a few questions about our bike and what we are up to. I thank them for helping keep the highways safe for us. Heidi said I was a little off with my Spanish but they got the gist and smiled.
The road from Tecoman to Playa Azul is in good shape and is a bikers dream with constant twists and turns. The landscape is getting much more tropical now and has a jungle feel. The growth along side the road is dense right up to and sometimes reaching onto the roadway. At times the trees arch over the entire road and give the feeling like we are riding through a dark tunnel. This is cool….
Getting close to playa Azul we start seeing some beautiful costal scenery.
Playa Azul was beautiful and I wish I stopped to take some photos. It was like a scene out of some fantasy dream. We rode through town and several miles out of town along the coast looking for the right hotel. We never found one. All the hotels were off the beach and didn’t look inviting and I didn’t like the parking security either. Heidi and I discuss our options. I think I remember what I read about this town in the guide book now. Years ago the Mexican government designated several spots for tourist development and this was one of them, but it never took off. I think the reason was because of the extreme surf break here. Anyway we decided to push on to a town not far away, Puerto de Lazaro Cardenas.
Puerto de Lazaro Cardenas is a large bustling city. We were driving through heavy rush hour traffic and it was getting a little tense. A lot of one way streets and even the two way streets looked like one way streets, everyone parking on both sides of the street pointing in the same direction, opposite the direction we were traveling. We see several large hotels in the middle of town but none with a court yard for parking. All the parking was underground under the hotel. This would be fine if we were planning on staying here for a couple days but we didn’t want to unload all the stuff from the bike just for one short night. Bummer, because the downtown was busting with activity and looked like it would be a lot of fun to explore on foot.
Driving into town I saw a drive in auto hotel (sexo hotel) Heidi says “We aren’t staying there” I say “These places are perfect for us and have a private garage attached to the rooms” She gives in.
We pull into the compound and drive right into a garage stall attached to the room. The room had a king size bed, huge 6 foot by 10 foot mirrors in front and behind the bed, a big TV with a large variety of channels (if ya know what I mean) And the room comes with two complimentary bottles of beer. The place also has room service with a dumb waiter window.
We order food and some more beer and enjoy the rest of the evening.
Hang on! This one is not done yet…..