Progressive Touring Link Chassis Stabilizer Install Question/Resulting Exhaust Leak Issue
- Thread starter Dr. Dolittle
- Start date
Dr. D,
When I did the upgrade on my '03 UC, to the "Trackula" set from True Track, I stripped off the exhaust so I could hit the swing arm pivot shaft fasteners with my 1/2" drive electric impact gun. Used an extension to get a 6-pt. socket on the nut and ZIP, right off.
Make sure you carefully support the tranny/engine BEFORE you attempt to get the pivot shaft out of the frame and tranny if you are going to do that.
Cheers,
TQ
Headed to the local Ace Hardware right now.
Will do.
Luckily, that's not required with the Progressive version. You're just replacing the swingarm mount located inboard of the passenger floorboard.
Breeze3at
Experienced Member
K; Besides making extra income, the reason HD says to use new Torca clamps is that the bolt is self centering the first time used. Subsequent uses can cause uneven pressure and flat spot on header pipe. I remove the Torca bolt, put it in my drill motor and hold it against my bench grinder to remove the splines. Then it just acts like a regular clamp. You can drill out the splined hole in the Torca instead of grinding the splines. I'm still using my oem Torca's and have had the mufflers off at least 15 times.
Thanks, Pete. I'm sure your post will make 100% sense to me when I go back out to the garage and take a close look at those clamps. I've got a Dremel (alas, no bench grinder) so I should be able to do the same grinding you're talking about.
This thing is absolutely driving me crazy!
The first thing I did was put the rear exhaust header and flange back onto the studs. When I put the nuts back on, the top one was a piece of cake. Bottom one was the complete opposite. Not enough clearance to get a socket or box wrench on the nut. The header pipe, cylinder head fins, and various other hard parts conspired to defeat my efforts, despite trying dozens of different approach angles and every tool I had available. Multiple trips to Ace, Home Depot, Harbor Freight, and Lowes had me trying a wide variety of specialty tools. The only combination that even remotely worked was putting a 1/2 inch crows foot wrench on the nut from the exact bottom and carefully connecting that to a stubby, flex head ratchet handle. This allowed me to get about 1/4 turn on the nut before I had to take everything off and reposition for the next 1/4 turn. Tedious, maddening, etc. Now maybe I know why that nut was only finger tight when I went to remove it!
No way I can get a torque wrench on it so I just made sure it has the same amount of thread showing as the upper nut which was torqued to specs.
What a frustrating day! Maybe tomorrow I can get back to the job of reinstalling the rest of the exhaust.
The first thing I did was put the rear exhaust header and flange back onto the studs. When I put the nuts back on, the top one was a piece of cake. Bottom one was the complete opposite. Not enough clearance to get a socket or box wrench on the nut. The header pipe, cylinder head fins, and various other hard parts conspired to defeat my efforts, despite trying dozens of different approach angles and every tool I had available. Multiple trips to Ace, Home Depot, Harbor Freight, and Lowes had me trying a wide variety of specialty tools. The only combination that even remotely worked was putting a 1/2 inch crows foot wrench on the nut from the exact bottom and carefully connecting that to a stubby, flex head ratchet handle. This allowed me to get about 1/4 turn on the nut before I had to take everything off and reposition for the next 1/4 turn. Tedious, maddening, etc. Now maybe I know why that nut was only finger tight when I went to remove it!
No way I can get a torque wrench on it so I just made sure it has the same amount of thread showing as the upper nut which was torqued to specs.
What a frustrating day! Maybe tomorrow I can get back to the job of reinstalling the rest of the exhaust.
Now you tell me!!! LOL!
I only have my old Sears, 3/8 inch drive socket set. Are the sockets that go on a 1/4 inch drive that much narrower that they fit onto this nut that much better? I never even thought about trying the next size down.
Yes. 1/4'' drive sockets have a much thinner sidewall. They don't need to put up with the extra torque that 3/8'' - 3/4'' have to