S&S 509C install on a 2006 FatBoy 88B

[dolt]

21k on the lifters.

I didn't check the pistons through the spark plug holes but I did get a good puff of air and the lifters were bottomed out. I can easily jack it up and do it again if need be, but I'm relatively sure I got it right.

SE pushrods. 2.5 turns. Adjusted fronts first, let them bleed down, rotated rear tire till I heard the puff and ensured the lifters for the rear were bottomed out and adjusted them.

It's not crazy loud but it is different and I have certainly heard worse. I may just be trying to make something up since I don't get to do this as often as I like so I'm not 100% trusting in myself.

I have adjusted pushrods more times than I can remember and I was sure that I always had them right. The last time I installed new cams in one of my bikes, I fired it up and immediately knew I had one the was off. Put the piston at TDC on the compression stroke and sure enough, one was loose.

I would go to 3 or evern 3.25 turns with those lifters and check to be sure the piston is at or very near TDC to check for any loose pushrods. After you hear the puff of air, use a plastic straw through the spark plug hole to bump the piston to TDC or just before or after; then check the pushrods before turning another 3-4 flats.

if the valve train is still noisy after making sure pushrod adjustment is dead on and you have added more preload on the lifter; replace the lifters. You can spend about $60 for a set of CompCams VThunder 850-1s, $130 for a set of S&S standards or $270 for a set of S&S Premiums, Gatermans, Woods, etc. Either the CompCams or S&S Standards will be suitable for your application; just depends on how much you want to spend. I consider lifters a maintenance item in a Harley motor with performance cams, more compression, etc., etc. and replace them about every 25K miles.

 

[Dan.1977P]

Well I checked the pushrods and they all had lateral play. Added an extra turn and things quieted down considerably.

 

[BUBBIE]

I DO agree with dolt...

SE pushrods should be 24 threads per inch... One T= .0415 ......... one flat = .007

I won't adjust them from "0" LASH Less than 3T + 2 flats or 3 flats...

I have found that "B" lifters, 1024 Gatermans, SnS standards, Delphi and even the "C"s seem to quiet best at 3T 2-3 Flats...

.130 LEAST to .140 deep is a good call on brand name lifters... You CAN go 4 Turns = .166 Deep but seldom I have used that... Once on a tough lifter (noisy) the 4 Turns = .166 deep made the lifter into a Quiet one.... (and that was a "B" )

Lifters run .200 to .212 deep to bottom out... So .140 is Good...

signed....BUBBIE

 

[Dan.1977P]

I checked the instructions again just to make sure I didn't misread them and they really state 2 1/2 turns. I wonder if they are being safe with the length so you don't end up bending a rod by going too far. It's back to where it was before I made the cam change so that's good. I may add a flat or two to see if I can quiet them down some more since that was one of the reasons I decided to go with adjustables after all.

 

[dolt]

I checked the instructions again just to make sure I didn't misread them and they really state 2 1/2 turns. I wonder if they are being safe with the length so you don't end up bending a rod by going too far. It's back to where it was before I made the cam change so that's good. I may add a flat or two to see if I can quiet them down some more since that was one of the reasons I decided to go with adjustables after all.

Everybody goes on and on about synthetic oils but the service manual states 50W in ambient temps between 60-80* F and north of 80 they call out 60W. Honestly, changing every 3K-5K mile, I just don't see the cost benefit of synthetics; I know, I am an outlier.

If you can't get it as quiet as you want, try following the manufacturers recommendation and run a quality 50W conventional as an experiment just to see if it makes a difference. It's cheap and you can dump it and return to synthetics if you want.

 

[BUBBIE]

I checked the instructions again just to make sure I didn't misread them and they really state 2 1/2 turns. I wonder if they are being safe with the length so you don't end up bending a rod by going too far. It's back to where it was before I made the cam change so that's good. I may add a flat or two to see if I can quiet them down some more since that was one of the reasons I decided to go with adjustables after all.

I can tell you THAT many things change From the Actual insstructions given from the Manufacturer...

We have performed Many trials and errors over the Years and Come up with the Best IMO....

Try the 3T and 2-3 flats... You will be glad...

I am stead-fast on Redline Products. BUT reciently, I have gone to a 10w60 by a German Manufacturer... 10w60 LiquiMoly for my Built motor... Some of you that have beamers know that oil...

It IS quieter and it Does run my 09 King Cooler than even what I considered the Best,,,,,, Redline....

You will find it forsale on Amazon for about 42 to 45 $ for a 5 ltr jug...

: LiquiMoly 10w-60 synthoil racetech gt1 100% Synthetic SL,CF,A3,B4 $8.52/qt

signed....BUBBIE

 

[dolt]

The last oil change in my all bore 107" was to Redline 20W60 synthetic; a trial. No more noise than with the conventional 20W50 but no other tangible benefits that would justify the additional cost. I am waiting to see what the Redline looks like at 3K miles and consider extending change interval to 5K miles, so the jury is still out on whether or not I change over to synthetics.

 

[Dan.1977P]

The last oil change in my all bore 107" was to Redline 20W60 synthetic; a trial. No more noise than with the conventional 20W50 but no other tangible benefits that would justify the additional cost. I am waiting to see what the Redline looks like at 3K miles and consider extending change interval to 5K miles, so the jury is still out on whether or not I change over to synthetics.

I went ahead and used their Schafer oil in the engine and tranny and it improved my shifting over the AMS oil but didn't do anything about the noise on the top end. I have it dialed in now where it's almost silent in 5th gear from 55 - 75 but chatters otherwise. No worse than it was before I did the cams so I'm chalking it up to higher lift and will put my ear plugs back in now. :newsmile072:

I'm getting antsy, though. I dropped the bike off last night so they could tune it today and I haven't gotten the call to pick it up yet. I'm not calling because I don't want to rush them but I don't like having my bike gone for so long!

 

[dolt]

I'm getting antsy, though. I dropped the bike off last night so they could tune it today and I haven't gotten the call to pick it up yet. I'm not calling because I don't want to rush them but I don't like having my bike gone for so long!

Are you not going to be present when they dyno tune? I would never let someone put one of my bikeso on the dyno for tuning unless I was there to observe. Maybe logisitics is an issue but if I were you, I would be there. You never know what might happen with a bike on the dyno and not matter how much you may trust the tuner, you will know for sure how it goes if you are there keeping them on their toes.:s

 

[Dan.1977P]

I was trying real hard to make it but I had plans I didn't know about keeping me from being there. They had trouble getting a signal from the crank position sensor yesterday afternoon just before closing. Weekend is packed so no riding anyway but would be nice to have it done.