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SE Pro Super Tuner + Smart Tune Software

Hammy, Popping out the exhaust is really a strange topic I have not mastered yet. The other day there was a good post where "going to the rich side" worked for another member. I wonder if you possibly you could have a small exhaust leak. Another thing is I am using my stock header pipes which have a cross-over which tie them together.

Before I installed my SE slip-on's I would get a pop every now and then (using factory slip-on's). Maybe 1-2 times during miles of "hot" city driving, I would get a single pop.

When I installed my SE slip-on's, I also pulled off the header pipes. I noticed I had a small leak on the front cylinder. I installed new header SS exhaust studs along with wire mess gaskets. Installed SE slip-ons (did not touch tune in map 20kpa area) and had absolutely no popping. Why I don't know. Maybe the small leak I had was the cause all along.
I can't explain it.

I just don't know how big of a leak you need before it will effect popping. There was a leak in my case but it was small. You could not see, hear it or smell it but it was there.

I also used tail pipe sealant when I installed the slip-ons to the header pipes. I also installed a new crossover gasket also.

It seems like some get rid of popping by going rich and some get rid of it by going lean.
You just may have a small header leak. Popping is indeed a strange topic.:)
 
Hi Hoople,

This popping is driving my crazy. It's not just a single pop here or there. It's several on almost every decel. It might do it 10 times. Sometimes quiet and subtle, but a lot of times it cracks and pops pretty loud.

There is only reason I think it is the tuner set up and not a physical bike problem. Last July or so, I switched from a vance & hines FuelPak to the SE pro tuner when my ECM went bad. Just wanted to try something different. This problem started when I changed. I had absolutely no popping or crackling at all with the fuelpak. The bike setup was completely the same as it is now.

Unless something did happen over time, I can't say. But. I don't think so.

That's why I'm hoping it can be eliminated. Just not sure what type of changes need to be made with the tuner program. The settings that were on the fuelpak were all just numbers - no tables like the pro tuner. You had no idea what any one stood for.
 
Hoople and Grillfish,

Have a couple more questions if you have some time for me.
I've been playing with my tuner.
Tried about 13 different AFR and Decel enleanment combos.
Definitely seems richer is better with my bike.
Nothing I do gets rid of the pooping issue I have, totally.
Right now I'm running 176AE106 with entire AFR table decrease by 1.0 and decel enleanment at original settings.
I was rereading all the posts on this thread from the beginning and got some ideas.
As I said, richer seems better, for popping and performance.
If I run the original 176AE106, it pops like crazy, surges at steady throttle and accel, and actually pops sometimes when shifting.
I'm thinking about increasing the VE tables 5 to 10% as you both have mentioned, and starting to try some smart tune runs.
I'm just not sure what to start my AFR table off at, when I begin.
Would you recommend the original 176AE106 table, or what I'm running?
Also you two mentioned about adjusting the close loop bias to 762 or 775.
If I'm running the entire AFR table richened up by 1.0, I don't have any bold numbers on my AFR table.
Does this mean I'm running totally in open loop, and the closed loop bias table won't matter?

Thanks in advance!!
 
hammy380 said:
Tried about 13 different AFR
Nothing I do gets rid of the pooping issue I have, totally.
Right now I'm running 176AE106 with entire AFR table decrease by 1.0 and
Click to expand...


Have an important question regarding the times & conditions you experience popping.

Example #1: Your in third gear. You accelerate under full throttle to 5000 RPM and you CHOP the throttle WITHOUT PULLING IN THE CLUTCH LEVER or shifting. Your using the engine as a brake. Do you hear popping?

Example #2: Your in third gear. You accelerate under full throttle to 5000 RPM and you CHOP the throttle and at the same time you pull in and hold the clutch lever without shifting. Do you hear popping.

Which example is worse.

Are you sure there are no exhaust leaks anywhere along the header pipes. I thought my pipes were sealed only to find a front cylinder header pipe leak.

A BIG mistake I see you making is don't make Global changes to the A/F table. Think of what the Map pressure & RPM is at the time you hear popping. (mental or via VCI recording) Those are the cells of importance. Focus on ONLY the cells you hear popping. Making global changes will change the performance of the bike under acceleration and you don't want to do that. The two most important things you need to know during heavy popping is your map pressure & RPM.
If you know those two numbers you can rid the bike of popping. I have a Stock 2009 FXDL (SE slip-on's only (no A/C). In Example #1, I have Zero, NO popping. In Example number #2, I can make it pop ONCE (just 1 small pop) if I really try. I have been just too lazy collecting info to trim those few cells but now that we are talking/writing about it, this week I will trim them and report my results.

Notice in the two examples above, the difference is MAP pressure. Using the engine as a brake is the 20 kpa region. Pulling in the clutch lever uses a much higher map reading.

Many people have Avatars that don't match the bike they are talking about. Your bike is a FXDL and you do have cable pull throttle, correct.

RHatch said:
If I advance my timing in the mid to high kPa and mid RPM areas should that increase my torque? Lets say, 1 deg at a time until the knock sensors light up?
Click to expand...

Way too many variables need to be taken into account before an answer to your question could be made. With air cooled engines, a very liberal "worse case" set of parameters (fuel quality from station to station, air temperature, engine temperature, air density etc) needs to be used to keep the engine out of the red zone.

The only way you can extract every ounce of torque from an engine is to have predicable and repeatable conditions surrounding the running of the engine. And unless your at a test track or in a dyno room, I just don't see that happening.

Yes, the ION knock retard system does work but you must also experience a few hits of detonation BEFORE the system even collects enough data to pull back the timing.
I would not want that happening over & over again if I happened to fill up with a tank of bad fuel. So unless you carry your laptop with you,, for the next 200 miles your going to listen to your pistons getting hammered.
 
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Using SEPST tuner you usually check the reset AFV on a re-flash of the ECM. OK, it resets adjusted fuel to 0?
Why was it not at '0' in the first place? what are we resetting?
And why are we not able to see what the AFV is at before resetting it in the ECM?
Anyone figure this one out?
 
Hi Everyone. This thread is very informative regarding the SEPST. In fact, I have read through it three times and I am starting to understand more.

With that said. I have the SEPST on both bikes. The Dyna, no complaints with whatever map the dealer downloaded has always been great running so I have never messed with it.

Now, with the Limited, kind of a different story. I am going back for third time to hopefully get a few more bugs worked out. The dealer does not have a dyno. I guess they Smart Tune? The dealer did say they are only able to make some adjustments. I am also changing the Rush slip ons to a 2" baffle from the 2.25", to loud.

So my question. If third time on the Limited isn't a charm, what would the groups recommendation be for me to purchase the software and cables and Smart Tune myself. How intuitive was the training DVD and is there a steep learning curve?

After reading through everything, while there is a lot to it, I do enjoy tinkering and fussing with stuff, especially electronics. I just don't get into the weeds with all the theory.

Appreciate everyone's feedback, thanks
 
The problem about using the SEST tuner yourself is not the fact you don't have a dyno. It's the fact you don't have an exhaust analyzer.
You do have a Dyno. While using the VCI in record mode, you something BETTER than a dyno. You have public road which is WAY better than any inertia dyno. Inertia dyno's are only good for WOT pulls. Nothing else. At "steady state" readings they are not much better than just holding the throttle while in neutral. Once the inertia drum is turning at a fixed RPM, they are just about useless. They don't take into account wind resistance so what good are they.

The big hook most people are up against is not having an exhaust analyzer. Without that you can not set the VE tables while under OPEN loop. Without being able to set the VE tables during OPEN loop, your just wasting your time. All Smart Tune will do is keep your engine out of the "red" zone as far as A/F ratio goes. Smart Tune can never give you the rich fat performance tune your looking for.
 
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