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Transmission Issue, whats next

So here's what I got:

From the manual.
2. Check friction plates as follows:

Wipe all lubricant from the friction plates.
Measure the thickness of each plate with a dial caliper or
micrometer. If the thickness of any plate is less than
0.143 inch (3.62 mm), discard the friction plates and
replace with an entirely new set.

Look for worn or damaged fiber surface material
(both sides).

What is the nominal thickness of new plates?

My measurements
Disc:
1 - .143” (inner narrow disc)
2 - .1425”
3 - .143”
4 - .1435”
5 - .144”
6 - .1415”
7 - .1435”
8 - .145”
9 - .145”

Metal discs: No burning/blueing, scoring or other obvious damage.

So it would seem the friction plates need to be replaced.

Now questions arise.
Is grinding a normal result of spent plates?
Should I be looking further or should I try the new plates before I needlessly dive deeper?
Should I replace just friction plates or metal as well?

Where and what brand to get?
I called the dealer where I bought the bike and they want $283 + tax. Not sure if that is entire pack or just friction plates.
 
While you are this far into it, you should get the rear wheel off the ground, put it in a gear and see if you can hold the inner clutch hub while turning the wheel. The inner hub and the trans. are a solid connection. If you can hold the inner hub while wheel is turning, the clutch plates (which are at the low end of spec. but not totally shot) were not the problem. Good luck, I'm interested in the outcome.
 
tadiorio said:
Is grinding a normal result of spent plates?
Should I be looking further or should I try the new plates before I needlessly dive deeper? Should I replace just friction plates or metal as well?
Where and what brand to get? I called the dealer where I bought the bike and they want $283 + tax.
Click to expand...

No, grinding is not a normal result of spent plates.
Yes, you should be looking further as Breeze3at suggests.

Could be wrong but I don't see a slipping clutch being the problem. Have replaced/repaired slipping clutches and none exibited the symptoms you have described.
 
I wish I did a video with the sound prior to pulling the primary cover.
I pick up the lift @ 5:30PM CST. Should have the results of spinning rear wheel w/ trans in gear by 7PM. Stay tuned.

I just hope it's something other than a stripped gear of spline; whatever that could be.

OK, got her in the air. While spinning the clutch hub in all gears, by hand, the rear wheel spins without a sound.

I suppose the safest route is to buy a clutch pack, install it and go from there.

Stay tuned, film at 11.

Any recommendations? A local independent dealer has Alto friction plates for $63. Was told they are as good or better than Harley.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
tadiorio said:
OK, got her in the air. While spinning the clutch hub in all gears, by hand, the rear wheel spins without a sound.

I suppose the safest route is to buy a clutch pack, install it and go from there.

Stay tuned, film at 11.
Click to expand...

And if you try to hold the wheel while turning the clutch hub there is solid resistance? The hub moves exactly as the wheel moves, you can't hold one or the other still? (I know I'm stubborn, but I just don't think the clutch was the fault).
I've no experience with the clutch plates you asked about.
 
Breeze3at said:
And if you try to hold the wheel while turning the clutch hub there is solid resistance? The hub moves exactly as the wheel moves, you can't hold one or the other still? (I know I'm stubborn, but I just don't think the clutch was the fault).
I've no experience with the clutch plates you asked about.
Click to expand...

I'm with Breeze3 on this. Need to look at this area closer.
 
I am stubborn as well. Yes there was resistance in all gears. Obviously we cannot generate the torque the engine does so we assume all is good in the trans and drive pulley spline, for now.

When I went to get the plates, the store/shop mechanics looked over my plates and said they were still good. For some reason they were of the opinion it is the throw out bearing. I bought one and the thrust washers and keeper clip. I removed the side door and pulled the slinger. I measured the old and new parts and they are identical. So much for being hopeful.

Now I have to get the primary locking tool so I can verify the torque of the compensator.

If that is not it, it's on to exposing the main shaft.

Remind me to get Loc-Tite for reassembly.

That is all, for now.
 
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