Transmission Issue, whats next

[dolt]

Another thing to check. The ratchet pawl spring in the tranny could have broken and stuck the trans in neutral. The grinding you heard could have been part of the spring getting chewed up by gears.

The thing I focus on is the fact that the bike will not move forward in any gear; IIRC, that is a symptom, right?

That symptom points to a malfuntioning drive system whic includes the primary drive, transmission and secondary drive. Something in one of those systems is busted; you just have to find it. It's not the clutch.:s

 

[tadiorio]

Another thing to check. The ratchet pawl spring in the tranny could have broken and stuck the trans in neutral. The grinding you heard could have been part of the spring getting chewed up by gears.

The thing I focus on is the fact that the bike will not move forward in any gear; IIRC, that is a symptom, right?

That symptom points to a malfuntioning drive system whic includes the primary drive, transmission and secondary drive. Something in one of those systems is busted; you just have to find it. It's not the clutch.:s

The trans is not stuck, it shifts in and out of neutral and through all gears.
I am able to rotate the clutch hub in all gears which rotates the rear wheel. I cannot produce sufficient torque to determine if there is any spline/pulley damage. That will require disassembly. So today I get the primary lock tool and start at the compensator and move on from there.

 

[dolt]

The trans is not stuck, it shifts in and out of neutral and through all gears. I am able to rotate the clutch hub in all gears which rotates the rear wheel. I cannot produce sufficient torque to determine if there is any spline/pulley damage. That will require disassembly. So today I get the primary lock tool and start at the compensator and move on from there.

I got all that. However, if the bike don't move, in any gear when you disengage the clutch; something in the primary drive, transmission or seondary drive is busted. There were two similar posts and maybe I got yours mixed up with the other, but I thought one of the posters said that the bike did not move in any gear when you let out on the clutch lever. Was that you or the other guy?:newsmile091:

 

[tadiorio]

I got all that. However, if the bike don't move, in any gear when you disengage the clutch; something in the primary drive, transmission or seondary drive is busted. There were two similar posts and maybe I got yours mixed up with the other, but I thought one of the posters said that the bike did not move in any gear when you let out on the clutch lever. Was that you or the other guy?:newsmile091:

That was me. It's going to be a process of elimination at this point.

Still waiting for the primary locking tool to arrive, so I am on hold.

 

[dolt]

That was me. It's going to be a process of elimination at this point.

Still waiting for the primary locking tool to arrive, so I am on hold.

Cut a piece of 2x4 and wedge it between the sprockets. Got a hack saw? Pick up a 1.5"x48"x1/8" steel bar at Home Depot for about $7 and cut it to shape. The photo shows the dimensions for an FLT/FLS. I know, the thickness is 1/4", stiffer for sure but 1/8" will work as well. I cut one out of an old lawn mower blade years ago and use it regularly.:newsmile091:

 

[tadiorio]

Cut a piece of 2x4 and wedge it between the sprockets. Got a hack saw? Pick up a 1.5"x48"x1/8" steel bar at Home Depot for about $7 and cut it to shape. The photo shows the dimensions for an FLT/FLS. I know, the thickness is 1/4", stiffer for sure but 1/8" will work as well. I cut one out of an old lawn mower blade years ago and use it regularly.:newsmile091:

Too late, I bought one from the local independent operator. It was one of those do I or don't I support the locals decisions. Jims $44.99 ouch.

Anyway, here's a boring update.

Went to Sears and got 1-3/16 & 1.5" sockets a 3/8 drive T27 and a inch lb clicker torque wrench for reassembly; already have ft. lb. Hey got a free Craftsman tool bag. :small3d026:

Loosened compensator and all looked good, no wear; not sure of torque.
Went to remove clutch basket 1-3/16 nut with trans in gear and....
There was resistance but a little extra nudge and the shaft started turning. It was 'indexing' around. I did this in all gears and no gear noise. I reinstalled the clutch plates to get friction to loosen the nut and remove the basket. The basket looks fine. So, I think it is either the drive pulley or shaft spline that has stripped out. My guess would be the pulley. I would expect the shaft metal to be stronger.

Stay tuned.

 

[tadiorio]

Hey Dolt,
Any home brew ideas for a final drive lock and bearing remove/install tools?

Holy carp, just to replace a belt is major surgery. May as well replace that as well.
Guess I keep this puppy another 5 years.

 

[dolt]

Hey Dolt,
Any home brew ideas for a final drive lock and bearing remove/install tools?

Holy carp, just to replace a belt is major surgery. May as well replace that as well. Guess I keep this puppy another 5 years.

If you are referring to locking the trans pulley; there is a home brew approach but it's pretty primitive; caveman even.



Rebar cut to length and clamped to the pulley with large bolt or worm drive clamps as used in HVAC applications. If the trans pulley isn't really tight, this approach will work but some are very difficult to break loose. I would suggest that you rent a 3/4 drive electric impact wrench to break the nut loose. That nut is usually torqued with red Loctite and can be unbelievably difficult to break loose. The caveman approach would be a last resort.

You will also need the trans pulley long socket and donut. Which can be fabricated from a socket and a piece of pipe and some welding. Your best bet would be to pony up the $$ for the trans pulley locking tool and trans pulley socket from George's garage. PNs 620030 and 620020.

Trans/Primary Pre-06

If the bearing tool you refer to are the tools to R/R the IPB race, Georges Garage again, PN620060. I have seen a similar tool on EBay for a little less but can't vouch for quality; Georges tools are high quality.

I know, the tools are a bit pricey but that's your choice; DIY the repair and save the labor cost or purchase the tools. I bought mine years ago for a one time transmission rebuild and have used them many time since on my bikes and others. I just used them again recently to remove the drive belt to install the later narrow belt/pulley.:newsmile091:

 

[tadiorio]

If you are referring to locking the trans pulley; there is a home brew approach but it's pretty primitive; caveman even.



Rebar cut to length and clamped to the pulley with large bolt or worm drive clamps as used in HVAC applications. If the trans pulley isn't really tight, this approach will work but some are very difficult to break loose. I would suggest that you rent a 3/4 drive electric impact wrench to break the nut loose. That nut is usually torqued with red Loctite and can be unbelievably difficult to break loose. The caveman approach would be a last resort.

You will also need the trans pulley long socket and donut. Which can be fabricated from a socket and a piece of pipe and some welding. Your best bet would be to pony up the $$ for the trans pulley locking tool and trans pulley socket from George's garage. PNs 620030 and 620020.

Trans/Primary Pre-06

If the bearing tool you refer to are the tools to R/R the IPB race, Georges Garage again, PN620060. I have seen a similar tool on EBay for a little less but can't vouch for quality; Georges tools are high quality.

I know, the tools are a bit pricey but that's your choice; DIY the repair and save the labor cost or purchase the tools. I bought mine years ago for a one time transmission rebuild and have used them many time since on my bikes and others. I just used them again recently to remove the drive belt to install the later narrow belt/pulley.:newsmile091:

Thanks DOLT,

That does look caveman.

I called the local independent and asked what they would charge to do the 'heavy lift'. By heavy lift I mean I roll the bike in and they do all work that requires specific tools.

They have the experience, and tools, to do it without pulling the swing arm the way the manual says and I am not inclined to do. They said they will replace any bearings, bushings, seals and the pulley for well under $500 out the door; then I put the primary back on and go ride.

If I had ready access to the tools, DIY is the way I would go. I do like mechanical work as long as I have the proper tools. But after this I don't foresee ever needing the tools again. If it's a livelihood, I understand owning but for rare occasional use.......

It may be a week or so but I will post final updates.

Thanks for the interaction.

 

[banjopete]

From someone who has experienced that twice in twenty years with the same machine.....It sounds like stripped splines on the front pulley. Usually means seals and other stuff is shot as well and the splines on the main gear may be compromised too. Iv'e replaced 3 pulley's and one main gear due to BADLY damaged splines. Some times you can get away with just the new pulley(and seals and stuff too.).. I invested in some specialty tools early in this bikes life and they have sure paid off vs shop rates ($105/hr) Winnipeg HD rate. Good luck...Pete