1988 sportster Bad Crankshaft ... what now? HELP!

[Jack Klarich]

#4 and 6 in this picture, make sure the flanges are tightened equally

 

[fin_676]

Jack has you covered here air being drawn into the system after the carb will weaken the mixture and give the result you currently have
Also check the carb to manifold seal

Brian

 

[Maustarman]

Ok... Double checked the intake seals and it definitely had a leak ..
I took off and remounted it and it runs much better but still spoty..
** The Great News are that the ticking noise is ABSOLUTELY 100% GONE!
That thing is so quite now that a Prius makes more noise than my bike lol.

I'm going to get new intake seals tomorrow and clean up the carb to double check things but I'm incredibly happy!
Especially since I didn't have to pay the $4K the mechanic was hopping to get from me.

Thank you, thank you everyone.
I'll update with a video in the next couple of days

 

[stray dog]

Good on you for rolling up the sleeves and figuring this thing out!
What was the thickness of the head gaskets before and after?

I'm still iffy on the crank thing even though it wasn't the source of the noise.

 

[dolt]

The minimum piston to valve clearance should be .030"; .0060" is better. If the pistons were not fly cut to open up the valve reliefs and a thicker head gasket was used to solve the ticking noise, the OP better hope he never misses a shift and/or floats a valve.

CCP is still way high; very hard on battery and starter; compression releases are definitely required and/or cam replacement with a later intake close.

I would still be concerned about the angular movement of the rod on the crank in the OPs video. Maybe camera angle??

If Cometic gaskets were used, no o-ring is required.:coffee

Otherwise, I wish the OP and his motor a long and happy life.