Engine Oil Poll
- Thread starter glider.
- Start date
Put Mobile 1 V-Twin 20w50 in engine only and mobile 1 75-140 in transmission WOW what a difference in just 2 blocks 300 miles later no change this is the ticket.Primary next likely will stick to Mobile 1 used it racing hasn't failed me yet.
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20008 Ultra Classic Black Pearl
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20008 Ultra Classic Black Pearl
chefron
Active Member
Here's one for you glider. If my fairly new BMW (which due to the warranty has free oil changes, regular maintenance etc.) goes 15K miles between oil changes. wouldn't it be safe to say that M1 would be the best possible oil for all bikes? I'm only asking as there are many opinions on this site and loyalty runs deep among other brands.
Oils for the most part become the choice of the owner as to which is best for them and most have their reasons for the choice. Truth be known that most any quality oil of the right viscosity will do the job, some just do it better than others IMO. I suggest the Mobil 1 being it is a very high quality oil with the right additive packages for the application.
Some post that "I use brand XXX with no problems". It's difficult to tell if they are causing a problem until it is too late, then the damage is already done and is not reversible.
Very few if any of the better quality oils will "cause a problem" but when the cheaper oils are used, they too will not cause a problem until they start to break down (which happens quickly) from the heat and then the problems begin. You can save some $$$ on buying a cheap oil but you will end up down the road spending those $$$ you saved on engine repair/rebuild.
I'm sure that if someone posed a question to you that if you walked down a certain street that something very dangerous to your health could happen but if you went one block over to get to the same destination and you would get there safely, it wouldn't be hard to figure which route you would take.
Why gamble with oils? It's the life blood of any engine!
Some post that "I use brand XXX with no problems". It's difficult to tell if they are causing a problem until it is too late, then the damage is already done and is not reversible.
Very few if any of the better quality oils will "cause a problem" but when the cheaper oils are used, they too will not cause a problem until they start to break down (which happens quickly) from the heat and then the problems begin. You can save some $$$ on buying a cheap oil but you will end up down the road spending those $$$ you saved on engine repair/rebuild.
I'm sure that if someone posed a question to you that if you walked down a certain street that something very dangerous to your health could happen but if you went one block over to get to the same destination and you would get there safely, it wouldn't be hard to figure which route you would take.
Why gamble with oils? It's the life blood of any engine!
cedarbrook63
Junior Member
I ride a Sporty 883 which I bought new a few months back . I was in my local HD dealership today and got talking to one of the mechanics. I have seen some advice on this forum about changing my engine oil at 500 miles and then again for the first service at 1,000 miles. When I do change from the stock HD fossil, I'm planning on using Mobil V-Twin 20/50 (presuming I can get it easily here in the UK 
). Anyway - this mechanic told me that HD Syn 3 oil is FULLY synthetic and also that I should not change to full synth until the first service. He said on some of the Screaming Eagle special edition bikes that were using synthetic oil from the very beginning, it was found that the new engines weren't running in properly.
Any views out there this conversation?
). Anyway - this mechanic told me that HD Syn 3 oil is FULLY synthetic and also that I should not change to full synth until the first service. He said on some of the Screaming Eagle special edition bikes that were using synthetic oil from the very beginning, it was found that the new engines weren't running in properly.Any views out there this conversation?
That mechanic should go back to school again. Ask him what group the oil is in and see if he even knows that. It's group 3 which is a refined dino oil. Group 4 is synthetics. Nothing worse than somebody that is working in a dealer that really doesn't what they are saying.
I have had a CVO bike that came with the syn 3 in it and drained it out when I got it home and replaced it with Mobil 1 V Twin synthetic, never a problem with it. I do the same with all bikes I get when they get home. It's HOW you break them in that makes the difference.
Copy this post below and read up on it and go question who told you this info about Syn 3 oil.
Synthetic Oils - Harley Davidson Community
Oil Groups Explained - Harley Davidson Community
Proper Engine Break In For New Motors - Harley Davidson Community
cedarbrook63
Junior Member
Thanks as always for the dependable heads up Chief
It is a bit worrying that the HD guy didn't seem to have his facts straight :58:.
I'll carry on with my original plan then and put the Mobil synth in now and a new filter.
I liked the info on breaking in too. Thanks again Glider.
It is a bit worrying that the HD guy didn't seem to have his facts straight :58:.
I'll carry on with my original plan then and put the Mobil synth in now and a new filter.
I liked the info on breaking in too. Thanks again Glider.
cedarbrook63
Junior Member
Can't find Mobil 1 V twin in UK unfortunately and Amsoil is extremely expensive here. My dealership want to use HD Syn 3 but everything I read about it here has put me off.
Have seen this one for a much more reasonable price on ebay:
Silkolene Comp 4 20-50 Motorcycle Oil
Anyone ever used this and any opinions out there?
Thanks guys.
Have seen this one for a much more reasonable price on ebay:
Silkolene Comp 4 20-50 Motorcycle Oil
Anyone ever used this and any opinions out there?
Thanks guys.