dolt
Well-Known Member
Zipper's is no different than any aftermarket vendor and often offer solutions for problems that either don't exist or are only problems because the vendor so identifies them. The link you included and the quality issues described in the Zippers article to not apply to the SE plate which is billet aluminum and not a porous aluminum casting.
The MoCo mass produces motorcyles and outsources the manufacture of many of the internal motor components. There are a gazillion Harleys, stock and modified to some degree, running just fine and rolling up high miles on OEM parts, even the '07 up OEM cam plate. The MoCo didn't design an inferior cam plate; they designed a cam plate that is suitable for the power, and I use that term loosely, that a bone stock motor will make. Start increasing HP/TQ and that's why there is an SE Performance catalog; if you want to play, you gots to pay.
Back in #12, I pointed out that my objection to using the OEM cam plate, with performance cams, was that the outer cam journals are carried in the parent material of the cam plate vis the earlier cam plates that carried the outer cam journals in bearings. However, there are many that are running performance cams in the OEM cam plate without issues. I also pointed out in #12 that I would never run SE or OEM tappets (the "B" lifter being the exception) with performance cams.
There are DIY fixes to the OEM pressure relief valve sealing problem; if the problem exists. Drill and tap the valve and thread in a screw long enough to extend beyond the bore opening so it can be chucked up in a hand held battery powered drill, apply some valve lapping compound to the valve and spin in in the bore at the seat to improve the seal. Or replace it with the Axtell relief/bypass hardware which I have confirmed with some that have used it that it works as advertised. Still stuck with cams that are supported in the parent material of the cam plate though which is my biggest objection.
However, gazillions of OEM hydraulic tensioners running high mileage with no issues but remain a maintenance item. The Zipper's dual piston tensioners are definitely an improvement but, like the OEM tensioners, remain a maintenance item. Gear drive cams are the only way to eliminate tensioner maintenance and you can't do that with SE cams.
So, you have the option of replacing the OEM cam plate or making the above modifications to improve it or replacing the cam plate. I would replace it if installing performance cams, as you plan to do simply for the better outer support of the bronze bushings. If you are a belt and suspenders type, replace the tensioners with the Zipper's dual piston pieces. I would however, remove the pressure relief valve and polish it up before installation. The SE billet plate/pump combination PN 25282-11 is as good as any and includes the upgraded pump; reasonably priced if purchased from an online discount dealer.
If you have money to burn, replace the OEM cam plate/pump with the 25282-11 kit, install the cams, observe the chain rotation when you remove the OEM cams and replace the chains so they rotate in the same direction, drop in the +.030" pushrods, use your "B" lifters, re-use or replace the OEM tensioners if they look serviceable and call it good.
If you are trying to keep cost down which is indicated by the title of your OP, re-use all your OEM cam plate/pump parts, upgrade it as described above, use the +.030" pushrods, your "B" lifters and go.
The MoCo mass produces motorcyles and outsources the manufacture of many of the internal motor components. There are a gazillion Harleys, stock and modified to some degree, running just fine and rolling up high miles on OEM parts, even the '07 up OEM cam plate. The MoCo didn't design an inferior cam plate; they designed a cam plate that is suitable for the power, and I use that term loosely, that a bone stock motor will make. Start increasing HP/TQ and that's why there is an SE Performance catalog; if you want to play, you gots to pay.
Back in #12, I pointed out that my objection to using the OEM cam plate, with performance cams, was that the outer cam journals are carried in the parent material of the cam plate vis the earlier cam plates that carried the outer cam journals in bearings. However, there are many that are running performance cams in the OEM cam plate without issues. I also pointed out in #12 that I would never run SE or OEM tappets (the "B" lifter being the exception) with performance cams.
There are DIY fixes to the OEM pressure relief valve sealing problem; if the problem exists. Drill and tap the valve and thread in a screw long enough to extend beyond the bore opening so it can be chucked up in a hand held battery powered drill, apply some valve lapping compound to the valve and spin in in the bore at the seat to improve the seal. Or replace it with the Axtell relief/bypass hardware which I have confirmed with some that have used it that it works as advertised. Still stuck with cams that are supported in the parent material of the cam plate though which is my biggest objection.
However, gazillions of OEM hydraulic tensioners running high mileage with no issues but remain a maintenance item. The Zipper's dual piston tensioners are definitely an improvement but, like the OEM tensioners, remain a maintenance item. Gear drive cams are the only way to eliminate tensioner maintenance and you can't do that with SE cams.
So, you have the option of replacing the OEM cam plate or making the above modifications to improve it or replacing the cam plate. I would replace it if installing performance cams, as you plan to do simply for the better outer support of the bronze bushings. If you are a belt and suspenders type, replace the tensioners with the Zipper's dual piston pieces. I would however, remove the pressure relief valve and polish it up before installation. The SE billet plate/pump combination PN 25282-11 is as good as any and includes the upgraded pump; reasonably priced if purchased from an online discount dealer.
If you have money to burn, replace the OEM cam plate/pump with the 25282-11 kit, install the cams, observe the chain rotation when you remove the OEM cams and replace the chains so they rotate in the same direction, drop in the +.030" pushrods, use your "B" lifters, re-use or replace the OEM tensioners if they look serviceable and call it good.
If you are trying to keep cost down which is indicated by the title of your OP, re-use all your OEM cam plate/pump parts, upgrade it as described above, use the +.030" pushrods, your "B" lifters and go.
