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Stumped why will my bike only turn twice and stop

Jack Klarich said:
This being an Evo even with shaved heads, I would not see the need for compression releases The starters them selves were not much of a problem, the drives and jack shafts were most of the problems here, More info on what or what not has been done to this bike would help, but I would bet a bad drive or binding jack shaft are to blame here
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I beleive it does have compression releases <<< can those go bad and cause such a problem?
 
Hoople said:
Did you happen to check the voltage drop across that known good battery. It is always nice to cross check your results.
Assuming the test battery was pulled to its knees also, your down to just a couple of possibilities. Without knowing the bike or engine, you never can rule out an engine having a problem which would result in an extreme amount of internal resistance. But before I went through the trouble to measure the torque needed to turn the engine by hand, I would just say the starter is bad. Either you have shorted commutator segments or a field pole is shorted. The brushes could be so worn that all the brush carbon is shorting out the works.

Looking at your schematic, the high current solenoid is part of the starter. It can't be the starter relay itself, and ruling out internal engine friction, it's got to be a problem that is internal to the starter. At least that's my guess....
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Yes Hoople , i checked the new battery and it was reading precisely the same prior, with ,and without a load on the battery. i am going twrds the starter and i will be able to use those pdf's should help out if i need to dig in,thank you! i will let you know the results once the issue is discovered (=
 
From the jack-shaft PDF it looks like you must remove the primary cover in order to remove the starter assembly. If that is the case, you can easily check the torque required to turn the crank by hand using a torque wrench on the compensator nut of the crankshaft. That will eliminate a few other possibilities.

Just wondering about something so a quick question to cover a loose end. When you cranked the engine over with the plugs removed, did you happen to see raw fuel or a heavy fuel mist coming out of the spark plug holes?

Can't believe the span of help your getting on this problem. You have to take it to the finish yourself without the dealers help because they are just too $$ :)
 
Hoople said:
From the jack-shaft PDF it looks like you must remove the primary cover in order to remove the starter assembly. If that is the case, you can easily check the torque required to turn the crank by hand using a torque wrench on the compensator nut of the crankshaft. That will eliminate a few other possibilities.

Just wondering about something so a quick question to cover a loose end. When you cranked the engine over with the plugs removed, did you happen to see raw fuel or a heavy fuel mist coming out of the spark plug holes?

Can't believe the span of help your getting on this problem. You have to take it to the finish yourself without the dealers help because they are just too $$ :)
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Your completely right i feel like we will get this figured out together(= I had removed the primary cover and had to remove everything and while i was disassembling the chain clutch and gears it would actually pull my bike forward , i had a friend hold the brakes so i could loosen the compensator nut without the bike pulling backwards or fwrds when replacing nut ,,, I didnt check for any fuel mist but i did smell the essence of fuel. Because i just removed the primary cover and replaced the fluids im going to put the removal of the cover to second , i want to look into compression issues a bit more concidering ive always had difficulties with hard starts and the high crank batteries ive used in the past
 
cito2486 said:
Your completely right i feel like we will get this figured out together(= I had removed the primary cover and had to remove everything and while i was disassembling the chain clutch and gears it would actually pull my bike forward , i had a friend hold the brakes so i could loosen the compensator nut without the bike pulling backwards or fwrds when replacing nut ,,, I didnt check for any fuel mist but i did smell the essence of fuel. Because i just removed the primary cover and replaced the fluids im going to put the removal of the cover to second , i want to look into compression issues a bit more concidering ive always had difficulties with hard starts and the high crank batteries ive used in the past
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Can you confirm you have compression releases on the heads? If you do and they do not work it will be a problem
 
Rmac said:
Can you confirm that "it does have compression releases"? A picture of one head clearly showing the spark plug area would be helpful.
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unfortunately it does not have compression releases /= i didn't realize they weren't a stock item
 
cito2486 said:
unfortunately it does not have compression releases /= i didn't realize they weren't a stock item
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This may not be a bad thing. Once you get the starter problem sorted out, I would do a compression test on both cylinders. That said if you were having carb problems you may have had a hydraulic lock in the cylinders. When you had the problem with the charging system I would assume the starter cranked the bike slowly? This may have been the beginning of your starter problems
 
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